HomeClimbingAltar Boy

Altar Boy Climb on Cathedral Wall in Rocky Mountain National Park

Estes Park, Colorado United States
runout
trad
slab climbing
multi-pitch
alpine
route finding
exposed
crack climbing
Length: 1100 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
8
Location
Altar Boy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Altar Boy challenges climbers with its technical moves and bold route finding on Cathedral Wall’s granite faces. This eight-pitch alpine trad climb combines runout slab sections with finger cracks and airy traverses, making for an adventurous ascent in the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park."

Altar Boy Climb on Cathedral Wall in Rocky Mountain National Park

Altar Boy stands out on the Cathedral Wall as a challenging alpine trad route that demands more than just physical skill—it tests your navigation and mental grit across eight pitches of varied terrain. This climb, stretching over 1100 feet, threads its way between the Dalke and Kor routes, carving a path through steep slabs, airy traverses, and technical crack systems. The granite face here is unforgiving, with route-finding often as tricky as the moves themselves, and protection placements sparse enough to keep your attention sharp but manageable for those prepared.

From the start, Altar Boy pushes you left on a bold hand traverse above a massive, right-leaning roof, demanding commitment on exposed, runout sections around the 5.7 difficulty. The opening pitch splits into variations—from grassy ledges edging a vegetated crack to more direct but runout slab moves under the roof—each decision steering you into a unique challenge of balance and strategy.

Ascending further, the climb alternates between delicate face climbing and lock-off finger cracks that call for steady footwork and confident gear placements. The route’s signature wild traverses demand patience and precision, especially the long moves where protection is light and the rock’s angles test your balance and composure. Expect to juggle placements ranging from small nuts to cams up to 3 inches, with doubles up to 1.5 inches for key sections. This means a well-rounded rack is essential to stay safe and reduce rope drag.

The granite here tells its own story—sharp edges that catch your fingertips, textured slabs that challenge foot placements, and open book cracks that invite hand jams and laybacks. You’ll feel the mountain’s presence as the air thins and the views expand, with Rocky Mountain National Park’s rugged peaks stretching out around you. The approach offers a steady gain through alpine terrain, setting the tone for a full day of focused climbing.

This route demands respect, particularly for its sustained runout pitches where a misstep can lead to serious consequences. While the grade 5.9 R at times feels soft due to the approach moves, the true challenge lies in the mental endurance needed to commit on exposed sections. Compared to other routes on Cathedral Wall, Altar Boy sits comfortably in the realm of adventurous, traditional alpine climbs with persistent runout and varied climbing styles—from slab to dihedrals to cracks.

Timing your climb is critical: morning ascents take advantage of cooler air and shading on the northern walls, while afternoon sun can bring heat and increased rockfall risk. Always check the weather and aim for stable periods, as the alpine environment changes quickly and conditions can deteriorate.

Descent is a careful affair, involving downclimbs and possible rappels. Familiarize yourself with the route’s anchors and rappel stations, as loose blocks and ledges require cautious navigation. Altar Boy is not just a climb but a full alpine experience blending physical challenge with the raw beauty of Colorado’s high country. With thoughtful preparation and steady nerves, this route offers a memorable adventure for seasoned climbers eager to engage with the bold spirit of Cathedral Wall.

Climber Safety

Half of the climbing features long runouts with minimal gear opportunities. Take care on the slab and traverse sections, as falls can be serious. The rock is generally solid but be alert for loose blocks near ledges, especially on descent. Approach with a full rack and ensure good communication with your partner.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches8
Length1100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and potential rockfall on the route’s exposed faces.

Bring both small and mid-size cams; runners will help reduce rope drag on traverses.

Familiarize yourself with route-finding details before heading up—some variation pitches can confuse even experienced climbers.

Plan your descent in advance; some rappel anchors can be tricky to locate in fading light.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R rating suggests a climb where the technical moves are manageable but protection gaps increase the seriousness. While some pitches feel easier in moves, the scarcity of gear and bold traverses elevate the mental challenge beyond typical 5.9 climbs. Expect sections akin to other Cathedral Wall classics where committing to exposed faces and trusting sparse protection is key.

Gear Requirements

Bring a complete trad rack up to 3 inches, including doubles to 1.5 inches, and a set of nuts. Gear placements can be sparse and require careful selection around tricky moves and runout sections.

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Tags

runout
trad
slab climbing
multi-pitch
alpine
route finding
exposed
crack climbing