"Alpine-Moe is a compelling single-pitch trad route in Upper Dream Canyon that tests climbers with steep headwalls, runout slabs, and precise gear placements. Perfect for those seeking a focused trad challenge with striking creekside surroundings in Boulder."
Alpine-Moe, formerly known as Dihedral Dude, stands out on a striking wall just steps from the rushing creek of Upper Dream Canyon in Boulder, Colorado. This single-pitch trad route offers 90 feet of varied climbing that balances technical bolt-protected sections with runout slab terrain that demands both confidence and precise gear placement. Approaching the climb, you’ll find the start about 30 feet to the left of the well-known Werner’s Legacy, making it easy to spot for those familiar with the area.
The climb kicks off with a powerful push up a steep headwall, where four solid bolts mark the path. The rock here is unforgiving, requiring deliberate moves and calm focus. Once past this initial test, the route eases into a slab section, where small gear placements can offer added security against the lengthy stretch to the next bolt. The slab’s angle invites careful footwork, testing balance as the wall exposes you to the canyon’s ambient sounds—the creek daring you forward with its steady murmur.
Beyond the slab, the climb tightens into a second headwall guarded by two more bolts before easing again into slab terrain that leads to a 2-bolt anchor at approximately 95 feet. The absence of rappel rings here means you must be prepared to belay from the anchor, bring your partner up, and downclimb leftwards rather than retreat by rope. This adds a layer of adventure and caution to the descent.
Directly above the Alpine-Moe anchor lie two bolted routes: a left-facing corner and a sharp arete to the right. Just left of the anchor, another face route waits, all well-bolted and promising high-quality movement. This proximity to other climbs makes the wall a compact and engaging spot for trad and sport climbers alike.
Protection is anchored by six bolts, but between the fourth and fifth bolts, you encounter a significant runout on easier terrain. Savvy climbers will bring small cams or wired nuts here, as the rock allows for effective placements. Being prepared in this way keeps the climb well within a manageable risk profile while preserving its adventurous edge.
The area around Upper Dream Canyon is cherished not only for its climbing but also for its natural atmosphere, with pine-scented breezes sweeping through the narrow side canyon and the sound of the creek nudging every climber onward. Seasonally, spring through early fall provides the most comfortable weather and reliable rock conditions. Summer afternoons may bring intense sun exposure on the upper slabs, making an early start advisable.
Getting here means navigating a well-worn approach trail that meanders through mixed forest and meadows, taking roughly 20 minutes from the main trailhead. The terrain stays moderate, but the final scramble to the wall demands attention as loose rock can betray the unwary. GPS coordinates lead you straight to the heart of this climbing pocket.
Alpine-Moe is not just about the physical line but the mental game of managing runouts and reading the slab conditions. While the 5.9 rating feels fair to those accustomed to Boulder’s rock, the sustained nature of the moves on exposed sections adds a necessary edge. It stays approachable for intermediate climbers with solid trad skills but rewards those who come prepared with patience and sharp route-reading.
To descend, downclimbing left from the anchor is straightforward but requires secure footing and composure. It's best to scout the moves from above before committing, as any misstep here could lead to a longer fall. There is no fixed rappel, so pack light and plan your descent carefully.
For climbers searching for a trad route that combines bold headwalls, interesting gear challenges, and the quiet companionship of a creek-edge climbing nook, Alpine-Moe is a worthy expedition. This climb isn’t about flash or speed but about steady progression, careful protection, and savoring the rhythms of a seldom-crowded Boulder canyon.
Exercise caution on the slab sections, particularly the long runout between bolts. The anchor lacks rappel rings so downclimbing left is mandatory—ensure secure footing and maintain focus to avoid slips on loose rock below.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and sun exposure on the upper slabs.
Bring small cams or wired nuts for protection on the long runout section.
Prepare to downclimb left from the anchor, as no rappel rings are installed.
Approach via the main trailhead; expect a moderate 20-minute walk with some loose rock near the wall.
Six bolts protect the route with a notable runout between the fourth and fifth bolt on easier terrain. Small cams and wired nuts are recommended to fill this gap and keep confidence high, as no rappel rings are present at the anchor.
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