HomeClimbingAlligator Tears

Alligator Tears in Joshua Tree National Park

Twentynine Palms, California United States
trad
roof crux
dihedral
technical
sport challenge rock
Joshua Tree
desert climbing
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Alligator Tears
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Alligator Tears offers a compact burst of technical trad climbing on Joshua Tree's west face of Sports Challenge Rock. With a gymnastic roof crux and a tight dihedral start, this 30-foot route challenges precision and power, set against the vast desert backdrop."

Alligator Tears in Joshua Tree National Park

Alligator Tears stands as a classic test of technical skill and deliberate movement on the west face of Sports Challenge Rock within Joshua Tree National Park. This short but intense route demands sharp focus right from the start, where climbers enter a tight dihedral that challenges body positioning and footwork. The rock is rugged yet inviting, its coarse texture gripping calloused fingers and worn climbing shoes alike. As you ascend, the dihedral gives way to a striking roof feature—a gymnastic crux that rewards poise and strength with a surge of adrenaline. The roof problem here is dynamic in both movement and feel, pressing climbers to innovate on the fly. Beyond this pivotal sequence, the route eases, allowing time to catch your breath and enjoy the panoramic views of the desert expanse spreading below. At about 30 feet, Alligator Tears packs a potent dose of adventure in a brief climb, making it an accessible yet satisfying goal for those building trad experience in the park. Protection is straightforward, relying on a standard rack to guard against the route’s few but critical placements. The quality of the rock and manageable pitch length make it great for a half-day outing, especially in cooler seasons when the sun strikes the rock just right for grip without overheating the climber. Planning-wise, climbers should arrive early to secure parking and time their ascent before the afternoon winds pick up, common in this desert environment. Footwear with solid edging capability is essential given the technical foot placements throughout the crack and roof sections. Hydration and sun protection are also key, as Joshua Tree’s dry air quickly saps energy. Alligator Tears is a perfect introduction to Joshua Tree’s trad scene, blending technical climbing with the stark, compelling beauty of the high desert.

Climber Safety

The roof section requires controlled movement; avoid rushing as improper positioning can increase fall potential. Rock is solid but pay attention to loose debris on ledges below. The short approach minimizes exposure but watch footing on the sandy ground around the base.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid heat and secure parking inside Joshua Tree.

Wear shoes with sharp edging for precise footwork on the roof and dihedral.

Bring plenty of water and sun protection; the desert sun intensifies quickly.

Expect afternoon winds; plan your climb for morning hours when conditions are calmer.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Alligator Tears leans into technical finesse rather than sheer power. The grade feels fair with a crisp crux on the roof that might push climbers a grade or two harder due to its gymnastic demands. Compared to nearby routes on Sports Challenge Rock, its compact nature makes it an excellent stepping stone before moving on to longer, more sustained climbs in Joshua Tree.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack suffices for the route; expect straightforward placements focused on medium-sized cams and a few small nuts to protect the dihedral and roof. No fixed gear present.

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Tags

trad
roof crux
dihedral
technical
sport challenge rock
Joshua Tree
desert climbing