HomeClimbingAll American Hand Crack

All American Hand Crack: A Classic Trad Climb at Babylon Crag

Donner Summit,California ,United States
finger crack
hand crack
single pitch
overhanging
traditional gear
granite
Grade: 5.10a
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
All American Hand Crack
Aspect
South Facing

All American Hand Crack

5.10a, Trad

Donner Summit

California ,United States

Overview

"All American Hand Crack challenges trad climbers with a clean, progressively widening crack that demands precise gear placements and sustained technique. Located on Babylon Crag’s South face, this 65-foot classic offers a compelling test of skill and stamina."

All American Hand Crack: A Classic Trad Climb at Babylon Crag

Set against the rugged silhouette of the South face of Babylon Crag, the All American Hand Crack offers a focused trad climbing experience that demands both precision and endurance. From the base, the approach takes you partway up a gully where the wall reveals a long, clean crack that mirrors the renowned lines of Indian Creek—starting as a tight, rattly finger crack for the first 15 feet before progressively opening to accommodate wide hands throughout its 65-foot length. The steady overhang adds a physical component without sacrificing flow, culminating in a scooped ledge framing a low-angle hand crack that leads to a distinctive horn feature. Climbers must be prepared for a sustained effort, as the climb feels tougher than its 5.10a rating might suggest, especially in the technical finger-to-hand transitions near the start.

Protection on this route is well within reach for those with a solid rack of camalots, focusing on finger cams through to stoppers around one inch, with doubles in the 2" to 3" range to cover the wider sections and anchor building. The anchor itself can be trusted using a combination of a shoulder-length sling wrapped around the horn and a 2" camalot for added security. Experience in placing pro confidently in parallel cracks will serve well here.

Babylon Crag sits near Donner Summit, a gateway to Northern California’s high mountain landscapes, and this climb offers more than just movement—it places you in a space filled with the crunch of granite underfoot and the whisper of mountain air shifting around sharp edges. The sustained crack rhythm invites body tension, foot smearing, and gear placements that build rhythm and flow.

For those planning the route, timing an ascent in the spring to early fall gives the best rock conditions and avoids snow or wet cracks that can sap friction and safety. The approach is straightforward but demands attentiveness as the terrain leading up to the climb includes loose scree patches and uneven footing.

In all, the All American Hand Crack is perfect for trad climbers chasing a technical, high-quality crack close to the Lake Tahoe corridor—challenging, exposed but accessible, with a hands-on route that rewards preparation and patience.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock on the approach and in the lower crack sections. The horn used for the anchor requires careful sling placement for a solid belay; avoid overloading any one piece to maintain safety.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.10a
TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid afternoon sun hitting the crag.

Check for loose rock near the base and on the approach gullies.

Wear shoes with a sticky rubber sole to handle the varied crack widths.

Hydrate well and bring layers, as temperatures can swing sharply above treeline.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.10a, the climb feels slightly sandbagged due to the technical crux transitions from finger to hand jams and a powerful overhanging face section. Comparatively, it demands more consistent strength and crack technique than many routes in the Donner Summit area at the same grade.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack with finger cams and stoppers up to 1", plus doubles in 2" to 3" Camalots for wider placements and a secure anchor. Expect to use the horn feature for sling-based anchors.

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Tags

finger crack
hand crack
single pitch
overhanging
traditional gear
granite