5.10a, Trad
Donner Summit
California ,United States
"All American Hand Crack challenges trad climbers with a clean, progressively widening crack that demands precise gear placements and sustained technique. Located on Babylon Crag’s South face, this 65-foot classic offers a compelling test of skill and stamina."
Set against the rugged silhouette of the South face of Babylon Crag, the All American Hand Crack offers a focused trad climbing experience that demands both precision and endurance. From the base, the approach takes you partway up a gully where the wall reveals a long, clean crack that mirrors the renowned lines of Indian Creek—starting as a tight, rattly finger crack for the first 15 feet before progressively opening to accommodate wide hands throughout its 65-foot length. The steady overhang adds a physical component without sacrificing flow, culminating in a scooped ledge framing a low-angle hand crack that leads to a distinctive horn feature. Climbers must be prepared for a sustained effort, as the climb feels tougher than its 5.10a rating might suggest, especially in the technical finger-to-hand transitions near the start.
Protection on this route is well within reach for those with a solid rack of camalots, focusing on finger cams through to stoppers around one inch, with doubles in the 2" to 3" range to cover the wider sections and anchor building. The anchor itself can be trusted using a combination of a shoulder-length sling wrapped around the horn and a 2" camalot for added security. Experience in placing pro confidently in parallel cracks will serve well here.
Babylon Crag sits near Donner Summit, a gateway to Northern California’s high mountain landscapes, and this climb offers more than just movement—it places you in a space filled with the crunch of granite underfoot and the whisper of mountain air shifting around sharp edges. The sustained crack rhythm invites body tension, foot smearing, and gear placements that build rhythm and flow.
For those planning the route, timing an ascent in the spring to early fall gives the best rock conditions and avoids snow or wet cracks that can sap friction and safety. The approach is straightforward but demands attentiveness as the terrain leading up to the climb includes loose scree patches and uneven footing.
In all, the All American Hand Crack is perfect for trad climbers chasing a technical, high-quality crack close to the Lake Tahoe corridor—challenging, exposed but accessible, with a hands-on route that rewards preparation and patience.
Watch for loose rock on the approach and in the lower crack sections. The horn used for the anchor requires careful sling placement for a solid belay; avoid overloading any one piece to maintain safety.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon sun hitting the crag.
Check for loose rock near the base and on the approach gullies.
Wear shoes with a sticky rubber sole to handle the varied crack widths.
Hydrate well and bring layers, as temperatures can swing sharply above treeline.
Bring a rack with finger cams and stoppers up to 1", plus doubles in 2" to 3" Camalots for wider placements and a secure anchor. Expect to use the horn feature for sling-based anchors.
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