"Ali Booto presents a compact yet demanding two-pitch trad climb at The Smoke Bluffs. Combining scrambling, face climbing, and a critical crux near the top, this 5.11a route rewards skilled climbers with technical moves and solid protection in a stunning coastal mountain setting."
Ali Booto unfolds as a focused test of skill and nerve within the rugged terrain of The Smoke Bluffs near Squamish, British Columbia. This trad route commands attention from the outset, beginning with a rough scramble that delivers you to a set of weathered chains. Here, the true climbing begins as you face an exposed dyke and engage in a sustained, technical ascent through four bolts that guard the way upward. These bolts provide critical protection in an otherwise gear-dependent route where placements to 2-inch pro are your lifeline. At about 90 feet over two pitches, this climb demands both precision and composure on steep rock that presses your technique and body control. The gritty granite embraces your hands and feet, while distant forested slopes and the ever-present Pacific Northwest sky frame the scene with a fresh, natural vigor.
Approaching Ali Booto means preparing for a blend of simple scrambling and calculated technical moves. The dyke section is particularly notable — its sharp edges and occasional flakes require patience and confident footwork. While the route’s 5.11a grade may challenge many, nothing here feels gratuitous; each move fits into a logical sequence, with the hardest crux near the top where the bolts cluster. The chains at the summit stand ready to assure a secure finish, offering relief and a vantage point to take in the surrounding Smoke Bluffs area.
This location sits comfortably within a popular climbing network celebrated for its accessibility and variety—The Smoke Bluffs. The wider area offers a range of routes ideal for those looking to test the limits of trad, sport, and mixed styles. Ali Booto’s moderate length and two-pitch structure make it approachable within a day trip from Squamish, a hub renowned for its outdoor community and breathtaking coastal mountain landscapes.
For gear, climbers should come fully equipped with a standard trad rack including cams sized to 2 inches. The presence of bolts eases some protection concerns but do not rely solely on them—solid gear placement remains crucial to safe upward progress. The scramble to reach the climb requires sturdy approach shoes, with a brisk walk through forest terrain before the rock exposure sets in.
Ali Booto is best tackled in spring through early fall when the rock is dry, and the weather stable. Early morning starts are recommended to avoid the heat or afternoon showers, especially given the exposed sections near the top where moisture and slick surfaces become hazards. Descending involves careful downclimbing or rappelling from the chains, so double-check all anchor points before the second climber follows.
The climbing community around Squamish holds Ali Booto in regard for its straightforward yet rewarding nature—offering a tough but fair puzzle for trad climbers seeking an engaging challenge. It avoids unnecessary complexity and instead asks for focused, smart climbing. If you’re aiming to step up your trad game in a dramatic setting marked by towering rock faces and evergreen views, Ali Booto awaits your attention with open arms and firm holds.
Scramble sections can be slippery when damp—exercise caution on the approach. The fixed chains and bolts are aged; always test gear before weight-bearing. Rappelling requires proper double-rope use and backup checks due to exposed anchor positions.
Start early to avoid wet rock and afternoon wind gusts near the summit.
Approach shoes are best for the scramble before switching to climbing shoes at the base.
Check all anchor chains carefully before rappelling down.
Place gear confidently on the dyke to protect against the exposure on lead.
Bring a full trad rack with cams up to 2 inches and a set of quickdraws for the four bolts. Double ropes recommended for rappel off the top chains.
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