"Alexis Cracks Right presents a focused trad climb carved into Squamish’s granite, featuring three distinctive hand cracks forming an energetic line. Its moderate 5.7 grade combined with straightforward protection makes it an ideal climb for those seeking clean crack challenges in The Smoke Bluffs."
Alexis Cracks Right offers a crisp introduction to trad climbing with its clean, hand-sized cracks slicing through the granite walls of The Smoke Bluffs. Located within the vibrant Squamish climbing scene, this route invites climbers to engage directly with the rock’s natural rhythm—three distinct hand cracks arranged in an energetic “N” shape, each groove inviting a purposeful jam and careful footwork. The right-hand crack on this trio stands out for its straightforward line and accessible challenge, making it a favored choice for those sharpening their crack climbing skills or looking for a sharp, single-pitch route with character.
The rock itself feels solid and honest, demanding precise gear placements to protect your upward push. Expect to place cams confidently along the hand crack, requiring a single rack to navigate the offering safely. At the summit, two sets of 2-bolt anchors await, engineered for a secure rappel back to the base, streamlining both the ascent and descent experience.
The approach to Alexis Cracks Right is uncomplicated and well-marked—typical of The Smoke Bluffs area, where trails weave through open forest patches peppered with mossy stones and wind-shaped firs. A brisk 10–15 minute hike from the base parking lot brings climbers to the cliffside, providing a warm-up not just for the body but the senses, as light filters through a canopy that seemingly breathes with the mountain’s pulse.
The route’s 80-foot length moves efficiently, packing technical hand jams, natural rest spots, and just enough variation to stay engaging despite the moderate 5.7 rating. For climbers comfortable with this grade, the line feels earnestly stable, a trustworthy challenge that feels neither watered-down nor punishing. Those newer to crack climbing will appreciate the quality of holds and placements, which often reward deliberate movement and patience.
Timing your climb here matters. Morning to mid-afternoon sessions offer dappled sunlight that heats the granite just enough to enhance friction without baking the rock. The area’s west-facing aspect means mid-summer afternoons can lead to warmth on the wall but rarely oppressive heat. Cooler months provide crisp, steady conditions, making Alexis Cracks Right a reliable option year-round, as long as dry granite is assured.
Before you head out, pack hydration and a well-fitted set of crack gloves if you prefer added skin protection. Approach shoes or light boots suffice for the trail in, but the climbing requires a solid set of cams geared for hand to slightly larger sizes. Rappelling gear should be double-checked, with slings and locking carabiners making the anchor transition safe and smooth.
In all, Alexis Cracks Right embodies the pure joy of a clean granite crack—practical to prepare for and rewarding to climb. It’s a neat slice of Squamish trad climbing, ideal for a midday session or a quick climb to sharpen technique. Whether you’re here to refine jams or simply enjoy an accessible adventure in a world-renowned climbing zone, this route delivers with precision and style.
Ensure your gear placements are solid within the hand cracks, as the protection relies heavily on proper cam placements. The rappel descent uses fixed 2-bolt anchors—confirm their condition before trust falls. Weather can affect friction, so avoid climbing after rain or moisture.
Bring a crack glove or tape to protect your hands from persistent jamming.
Approach trail is short and lightly forested, so sturdy trail shoes will do.
Climb in the morning or early afternoon to take advantage of cooler rock temperatures.
Double-check your rappel gear at the bolt anchors before descending.
A single rack of cams is sufficient to protect the cracks confidently. Two sets of 2-bolt anchors at the top facilitate a safe rappel descent.
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