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Alabama Hills Gang: A Technical Slab Challenge on The Loaf

Lone Pine, California United States
thin slab
patina plates
delicate footwork
physical crux
single pitch
sport climbing
Alabama Hills
Length: 145 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Alabama Hills Gang
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Distinct from its neighbors on The Loaf, Alabama Hills Gang challenges climbers with sustained thin slab climbing punctuated by delicate footwork and a physical crux near the top. This 145-foot sport route rewards careful technique and delivers unforgettable views over the Alabama Hills."

Alabama Hills Gang: A Technical Slab Challenge on The Loaf

Alabama Hills Gang rises from the Western Wall in The Loaf, demanding precision and focus with its sustained slab climbing that sets it apart in the Alabama Hills. From the very beginning, the route tests your footwork and balance as you launch off a flat boulder with a cautious step into a sizable gap before settling onto a slippery slab. The rock here is alive with small divots and delicate dime-sized edges—each foot placement deliberate and rewarding. Clipping bolts spaced along this 145-foot line, you engage a rhythm of movement that blends technical finesse with steady power.

As you navigate the initial sequence, the route forces a subtle leftward traverse before swinging rightward around the 5.10a crux. It's a sequence that demands both mental and physical control—hesitate, and the slab will challenge your resolve. The protection is solid, with 17 bolts providing confidence throughout, yet the steep slab feels unyielding underfoot, requiring tight shoes and sharp focus. Midway up, a left-leaning ramp offers a brief reprieve, a platform to adjust your grips and breathe before stepping back onto the face.

The route’s character shifts as you climb higher, transitioning into patina plates that mark much of The Loaf’s signature style. Crisp edges invite confident hands and feet, but don’t let the polished rock fool you—a subtle but physical bulge crowns the final pitches, adding a 5.9 crux that pushes your strength and technique just before the anchor. Passing this challenge, the summit reveals a panorama that rewards every measured step: the wide-open grandeur of the Alabama Hills stretched below, framed by the Sierra’s rugged peaks.

Descending requires two ropes from a reliable two-bolt anchor with rings, offering a safe and straightforward rappel back to the base. The approach to the climb is short, but preparation is key: stiff-soled climbing shoes and a spotter for your first move ensure a safer start. Spring through fall offers ideal conditions here, with shaded faces in the morning giving way to warm afternoon light.

Alabama Hills Gang isn’t just another line on The Loaf—it’s a test of slab technique and mental grit that delivers one of the area’s most rewarding single-pitch sport climbs. Whether you’re tightening your shoes for the first time on delicate cup edges or hunting the joy of a perfectly executed smearing sequence, this route crafts an experience that balances challenge with breathtaking scenery.

Climber Safety

The initial step onto the slab crosses a noticeable gap from the flat boulder; a spotter is highly recommended to reduce risk. While the route is well bolted, slab sections demand precise foot placement and controlled movement to avoid slips, especially when the rock is warm or dusty.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length145 feet

Local Tips

Use a spotter for the initial gap between the boulder and slab to ensure a safe start.

Wear tight-fitting shoes with good edging support to handle the thin slab sections.

Plan your climb for morning shade during warm months to keep the rock cool and your grip sharp.

Two ropes are essential for a safe rappel from the two-bolt anchor with rings at the summit.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels true to the sustained slab nature of the route, with a crux that edges into physical 5.9 territory but is more about balance and sustained tension than power moves. It’s a solid benchmark for intermediate climbers confident on slab, standing out among The Loaf’s more varied lines for its consistency and technical demand.

Gear Requirements

(2) 60m ropes recommended for rappel, 17 quickdraws for secure bolts, and optional fried green tomatoes for a local flavor boost.

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Tags

thin slab
patina plates
delicate footwork
physical crux
single pitch
sport climbing
Alabama Hills