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Alabama Hills Climbing Guide: Desert Granite Beneath the High Sierra

Lone Pine, California
sport climbing
trad climbing
high desert
granite
easy access
short approaches
multi-pitch options
mixed rock quality
desert climate
views
Length: up to 150 ft
Type: Sport | Trad
Stars
Pitches
single pitch, short multi-pitch
Protected Place
Eastern Sierra
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Alabama Hills offers climbers a unique blend of high desert granite and sweeping mountain views just west of Highway 395 near Lone Pine, California. With routes accessible mere minutes from parked cars and a varied mix of sport and trad climbs, it’s a practical and inspiring destination for all skill levels."

Alabama Hills Climbing Guide: Desert Granite Beneath the High Sierra

Stretching along California’s Eastern Sierra, the Alabama Hills stand as a rugged playground for climbers seeking varied challenges just minutes from the desert town of Lone Pine. This high desert expanse of coarse granite and quartz monzonite formations rises against the backdrop of towering snow-capped peaks, including Mt. Whitney, offering not only remarkable visuals but climbing that invites both ease and adventure.

Approaching the Alabama Hills is a simple affair. Just off Whitney Portal Road, Movie Road threads its way through the landscape, putting adventurers mere steps from rock formations that range from easily accessible sport climbs to short scrambles that tease your climbing legs before the real work begins. The area’s reputation as the "ultimate lazy man's crag" is well-earned — routes often start a stone’s throw from your vehicle, making for efficient days where climbing time far outlasts approach time.

Rock quality here varies. North-facing walls favor a solid brown patina, offering reassuring holds and consistent friction, while other faces show loose, chossy sections, reminding climbers to stay attentive and test each move. The character of Alabama Hills’ granite carries echoes of Joshua Tree’s iconic terrain but is distinctly its own with an orange-brown hue, rough textures, and packed with adventure.

Classic routes in the area include favorites like Rotten Bananas, Center Dinosaur Crack, and Bananarama for those warming up with moderate climbs. For those seeking a step up, challenges such as Pangborn, Chocolate Pocket, and Hang 'em High deliver satisfying sequences that range from sustained crack climbs to technical face climbing. The higher-end climbs, including Diamondblade and Over the Rainbow, reward experience with intricate movement and exposure, each route rated carefully to reflect the effort required — no surprises, just solid, honest climbing.

Beyond the physical climb, the Alabama Hills carry a storied past deeply linked to the surrounding landscape and community. The rock’s name references the Confederate warship CSS Alabama, reflecting Lone Pine’s Civil War-era sympathies, while nearby Independence honors its opposing allegiance with the USS Kearsarge. Modern visitors also share the space with an active film industry that has been drawing from the dramatic scenery here since the 1920s. Respect for their presence preserves the quiet magic of the area and supports the local economy.

Climbers should prepare for elevation near 4,400 feet, which pairs with the region’s high desert climate to create dramatic weather swings—cool mountain mornings can quickly turn to hot sun-soaked afternoons. The best climbing seasons fall within spring and fall, when temperatures are milder and the air is clear. Shade is variable depending on the aspect of the climb, with north-facing walls offering respite from the heat during summer.

Gear up with a focus on sport climbing equipment, as bolts protect the majority of routes, but also be ready for some short trad sections. Since approach trails are short and straightforward, bring essentials for desert conditions—ample water, sun protection, and sturdy shoes. Keep an eye out for loose rock, especially on south-facing walls, and tread lightly to preserve this unique environment.

Descending is generally simple with many climbs accessed by walk-off or brief downclimbs, minimizing the need for ropes on descent. Still, caution is advised near looser sections to avoid slipping or dislodging rock.

Alabama Hills invites climbers of all levels to experience the thrill of vertical adventure with the High Sierra looming overhead. Whether you seek easy access to fun sport climbs or the challenge of steeper multi-pitch routes, the area’s variety and setting combine to deliver days well spent, filled with both challenge and awe.

Climber Safety

Some routes feature chossy rock sections, especially on south-facing walls; always test holds before committing. The area’s proximity to film sets means avoiding gear and cables to stay safe. Also, prepare for temperature variations and bring enough water for desert conditions.

Area Details

TypeSport | Trad
Pitchessingle pitch, short multi-pitch
Lengthup to 150 feet

Local Tips

Most climbs are accessed via Movie Road off Whitney Portal Road; parking is conveniently close to many routes.

Bring ample water and sun protection—high desert conditions can be harsh with significant temperature swings.

Respect active film crews and their equipment to support the local Lone Pine economy.

Watch for loose rock on south-facing walls; test holds carefully and don’t rush movements.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The Alabama Hills’ routes generally fall between 5.7 and 5.12a, favoring approachable moderate grades with a straightforward style typical of sport climbs. The ratings feel accurate and honest, with solid protection easing mental challenges. Compared with Joshua Tree, Alabama Hills offers similarly enjoyable granite but with shorter approaches and a different desert environment. The climbs lean neither soft nor sandbagged but provide a fair challenge for the grade.

Gear Requirements

Routes are predominantly bolted sport climbs, but some trad gear is useful. Expect to carry a standard sport rack with quickdraws and a light trad rack for occasional cracks. Sturdy shoes and sun protection are essential given the high desert exposure and variable rock quality.

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Tags

sport climbing
trad climbing
high desert
granite
easy access
short approaches
multi-pitch options
mixed rock quality
desert climate
views