Al Fine: A Bold Trad Climb in Le Gros Bras

Quebec City, Quebec Canada
trad climbing
multi-pitch
crack climbing
north-east aspect
runout sections
granite rock
old gear
rappel descent
Length: 590 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Al Fine
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Al Fine challenges climbers with four pitches of sustained trad climbing on Le Gros Bras' sheer granite. This route combines crack climbing, exposed face moves, and careful gear placement within the quiet beauty of Parc National des Grands-Jardins."

Al Fine: A Bold Trad Climb in Le Gros Bras

Al Fine presents a compelling trad climbing adventure along the rugged faces of Le Gros Bras in Quebec's Parc National des Grands-Jardins. This four-pitch route stretches over 590 feet, offering climbers a varied challenge that balances technical crack work with exposed face climbing. The climb begins with a demanding traverse immediately after the base of the steep, dark first wall where the first belay station awaits. A notable variant invite lies just a few meters above ground: veering right to follow a clean, nearly vertical crack that ascends directly to the next belay, showcasing hands-on crack skills with moves rated around 5.10a.

The rock here holds the patina of earlier explorers, with old slings still fixed on certain natural features—a reminder to bring a solid rack of traditional protection as placements require careful judgment in some sections. The route’s PG13 rating cautions that runouts exist and some gear placements feel marginal, demanding attention and respect. The environment around the climb breathes quiet wilderness; dense forest edges frame panoramic views that unfold with altitude, making each pitch a mix of focused movement and spacious exposure.

Access to the base requires a short trek through well-marked trails typical of Grands-Jardins’ protected lands. Approaching climbers will find the paths forested with northern hardwoods, their leaves whispering underfoot and occasional bird calls punctuating the stillness. The climb's north-eastern aspect means morning light softly warms the rock, while afternoons bring cool shade—ideal for summer ascents to avoid overheating.

For gear, prepare a full trad rack including medium to small cams and a set of nuts. The presence of aged slings calls for cautious placement checks and perhaps replacement if you plan to build anchors off them. Hikers and climbers alike appreciate the solitude here, but weather can shift rapidly; it’s wise to pack layers and check forecasts diligently. For descent, a carefully executed rappel is necessary, with a couple of well-protected stations aiding a safe and efficient retreat.

Al Fine stands as a straightforward yet satisfying climb that rewards steady hands and calm minds. It’s an inviting commitment for trad climbers looking to explore Quebec’s less-traveled granite walls, blending practical gear strategy with the pure pleasure of climbing untouched lines. With its quiet beauty, manageable length, and moderate technical demands, this route offers both newcomers and experienced climbers a memorable taste of eastern Canadian trad climbing’s raw character.

Climber Safety

Watch for weather changes and always double-check the condition of old slings and gear placements. Some crux sections have sparse protection, so maintain focus and avoid over-reaching. The rappel descent requires set-up on fixed stations that should be inspected for wear.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length590 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning sun warming the northeast-facing wall.

Scout gear placements thoroughly—some runouts feel bold and protection can be sparse.

Pack layers to stay comfortable; weather in Grands-Jardins can shift quickly.

Prepare for a rappel descent; bring sufficient cordage and practice solid anchor building.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.7 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.7 PG13 rating suggests a climb that's approachable but demands vigilance. While moves are technically moderate, the runout sections and vintage fixed gear require solid trad experience. The 5.10a crack variant adds a tasteful increase in difficulty for those seeking tech challenge. Overall, the grade feels honest, with some pitches stretching the margin between comfort and exposure—comparable to other trad routes in Quebec’s granite walls but unique for its mixture of face climbing and crack technique.

Gear Requirements

Bring a comprehensive trad rack focusing on medium and small cams and nuts to manage delicate placements. Expect to encounter some aged slings; assess and supplement these as needed for safety.

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Tags

trad climbing
multi-pitch
crack climbing
north-east aspect
runout sections
granite rock
old gear
rappel descent