"Air Conditioner offers a classic single-pitch 5.9 trad challenge on Taylor Canyon’s Left Hand Buttress, combining solid protection with engaging crack climbing. Perfect for those seeking a dependable climb with scenic views and a clear approach."
Air Conditioner stands out as a straightforward yet rewarding climb that captures the essence of trad climbing in Taylor Canyon. Located on the Left Hand Buttress, this single-pitch, 70-foot route offers an approachable challenge for those comfortable at 5.9. The climb begins with solid, textured rock that demands careful footwork and steady hand jams, typical of classic Colorado granite. As you ascend, the rock feels alive—cool to the touch where the shade lingers, warm where the sun reaches, each crack and edge daring you to find the perfect sequence.
The route’s protection calls for small to medium gear placements, so come prepared with a well-rounded rack focusing on nuts and cams suited for narrow cracks. Placement opportunities reward patience and precision, adding an engaging mental element to the physical effort. About 65 to 70 feet up, you reach a distinctive belay ledge where you can comfortably anchor, catching your breath and scanning the terrain above.
From this ledge, the route offers two options: climb a second pitch or sidestep onto a ledge traverse that leads to the anchors above the adjacent Question of Balance climb. This choice allows for some flexibility depending on your party’s skill and objectives for the day. The top-out provides sweeping views of the Gunnison Valley, with rugged hills stretching wide under the expanse of a big Colorado sky.
Taylor Canyon’s Left Hand Buttress is a favored spot not only for its accessibility but also its solid granite and clear exposure to the afternoon sun, making it ideal for cooler months or early season climbs. The approach trail is straightforward and well-maintained, running through a mixed terrain of pine groves and open rock faces. Expect a roughly 25-minute hike with about 400 feet of elevation gain, enough to warm the muscles before you reach the base.
Ideal footwear is stiff-soled climbing shoes with comfort that supports precise edging on the granite’s sharp edges, and bring plenty of water—especially on sunny days, as this section of the canyon can heat up quickly. Weather-wise, early spring through autumn provides the best conditions, avoiding the risk of sudden snow or slick rock. Always keep an eye on the forecast, since afternoon thunderstorms in Colorado can arrive swiftly.
For climbers seeking a taste of classic trad in a manageable package, Air Conditioner delivers with a blend of solid rock, thoughtful gear placements, and a scenic setting. It’s a climb that encourages respect for technique and offers a rewarding feeling of accomplishment as you reach the belay or push onward to the final anchors. Whether you’re sharpening your crack climbing skills or aiming for a memorable day on familiar stone, this route deserves a spot on your Taylor Canyon itinerary.
The ledge belay near the top is secure but somewhat narrow; anchor carefully and watch for loose rock during the ledge traverse. Seasonal rain can make the approach slick, and afternoon thunderstorms are common, so plan accordingly and descend promptly if weather shifts.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon heat on exposed sections.
Approach trail is well-marked, but wear sturdy shoes for rocky terrain.
Hydrate thoroughly; water sources are scarce near the base.
Weather can change quickly—check forecasts for afternoon storms.
Small to medium pro is essential for secure placements. Focus on nuts and cams that fit narrow cracks well. Bring a standard trad rack with extra small cams to handle tricky spots.
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