HomeClimbingAin't no Gebronie Touching this Bologna

Ain't no Gebronie Touching this Bologna

Welsford, Canada
trad
small-crack
bolt-protected
arête
granite
single-pitch
moderate-runout
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ain't no Gebronie Touching this Bologna
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ain't no Gebronie Touching this Bologna offers a crisp trad challenge on a sharp arête topped with a bolt, blending careful gear placements with polished granite moves. Perfect for climbers who appreciate short, technical routes with a mental edge."

Ain't no Gebronie Touching this Bologna

Ain't no Gebronie Touching this Bologna challenges you to ascend a sharp arête that demands both precise footwork and mental focus. From the base, the route immediately puts you on alert, climbing a clean, exposed edge before reaching a single fixed bolt that acts as a moment of reassurance in this otherwise lightly protected line. Beyond the bolt, the climb transitions to a face that offers plates and smooth rock, where gear placements become sparse and subtly hidden. Occasionally, the route veers left, inviting you to hunt out smaller cracks to wedge your pro and maintain security. The rock texture engages your fingertips, while the quiet openness of the Dawn Walls lets you hear the faint rustling of winds shaping the cliffs.

The 70-foot climb is a compact display of New Brunswick’s uncompromising granite, exposing the climber to a blend of delicate balance and thoughtful gear management. The area’s remote feel and towering cliffs create a rounded experience — one that tests your trad skills in a terrain that is neither bolted too tightly nor left completely wild. Approaching via the rugged trails of Cochrane Lane, the setting automatically centers your attention on movement and placements, reminding you that every hold counts.

Gear-wise, a standard rack supplemented by a few smaller cams and nuts will comfortably cover the gear requirements, especially to protect the moments after the bolt when pro is less frequent. The single bolt offers a rare but welcome fixed point for clipping, adding a touch of security without reducing the route’s adventurous spirit. Climbers appreciate this balance, where tradition meets modern safety standards but never compromises the climb's raw essence.

Being a south-facing wall, early morning ascents reward you with cooler temperatures and soft shadows, while afternoon sun warms the stone, drying the plates quickly after rain or dew. The elevation and exposure means weather can shift rapidly, so planning your climb in stable conditions enhances comfort and safety. Expect a steady 20-30 minute hike up from parking, on well-marked but uneven terrain. The trail greets you with forest scents mingling with brisk winds, setting a lively scene well before the first move.

Descent is straightforward through a single rappel from the fixed bolt, but the rope throw requires care to avoid snagging on the arête’s edges. Alternatively, experienced climbers may downclimb sections with caution, but the rappel is recommended to ensure a clean exit. Post-climb, the calming atmosphere of the surrounding Dawn Walls invites reflection on the technical skills just deployed against the raw rock.

This climb fits those who seek a short but thoughtful route with an edge of seriousness. The 5.9 R rating hints at a moderately stiff challenge, where runouts influence the mental game, and gear placements demand sharper focus rather than brute strength. Compared to other routes in the region, this climb holds a distinctive balance—it’s accessible but never easy, rewarding patience and careful judgment.

Climber Safety

The limited pro placements past the bolt mean falls could be significant; climbers should have solid trad experience and confidence in gear placements. Watch for loose plates and test placements carefully before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the Cochrane Lane trail—steady footing but uneven with some loose rock.

Carry a standard trad rack emphasizing smaller cams for more secure placements after the bolt.

Plan your climb in morning hours for cooler temperatures and better grip on the granite.

Rappel from the fixed bolt; ensure your rope throws clear to avoid snagging on the arête.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R grade indicates a climb that requires more mental toughness than pure physicality. The runouts and sparse gear after the bolt push you to stay focused and confident. Compared to other local 5.9 trad routes, this climb feels slightly stiffer due to limited protection options and exposed moves.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack with a focus on small cams and nuts, plus one fixed bolt offering a key clip point mid-route.

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Tags

trad
small-crack
bolt-protected
arête
granite
single-pitch
moderate-runout