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Agujero del Espacio at Mota Wall: A Crisp Introduction to El Potrero Chico’s Core

Nuevo Leon, Mexico
sharp edges
hand jamming
mantle move
sport route
Mexican limestone
single pitch
shared anchor
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Agujero del Espacio
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Agujero del Espacio unfolds as a focused 60-foot sprint of sharp edges and subtle hand jams on Mota Wall, making it an ideal warmup for the challenging climbs nearby. Its 5.10c grade balances excitement and accessibility for climbers looking to tune their technique in El Potrero Chico’s limestone realm."

Agujero del Espacio at Mota Wall: A Crisp Introduction to El Potrero Chico’s Core

For anyone scouting routes in El Potrero Chico, Agujero del Espacio represents an excellent balance of technical climbing and approachable difficulty, preparing fingers, feet, and focus for the more demanding lines clustered nearby. The climb’s character combines tight edges, thoughtful sequencing, and just enough variation to keep it engaging, rather than repetitive. Gear is simple: a sport rack with quickdraws suffices, allowing climbers to move fast and light. Local advice emphasizes good footwear for the slab and edges, a solid warmup before pushing into the 5.12’s that flank this area. Overall, the route is an accessible gateway into the cliff’s more complex and intense routes, rewarding careful movement and steady endurance under the Mexican sun.

Climber Safety

Though the route is well-bolted, some sections carry a bit of choss that calls for careful attention—avoid trusting loose holds especially near the mantle. Regular route maintenance isn't guaranteed, so check fixed gear before leading. Also, beware sun exposure after midday as the route bakes in sunlight, increasing risk of dehydration.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures on the east-northeast face.

Use climbing shoes with precise edging capability to navigate pockets and edges.

Stay mindful of occasional loose rock, especially near the upper mantle moves.

Hydrate well—water sources are limited near the trailhead.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating of Agujero del Espacio feels accurate, capturing a moderate challenge that sits comfortably between beginner and advanced sport climbs in El Potrero Chico. The hardest moves cluster around the mantle and technical edges rather than continuous steepness, offering a manageable crux. Compared to other local climbs, it’s less strenuous than nearby 12s but demands a precise approach to hold selection and body positioning, making it a practical stepping stone for improving climbers.

Gear Requirements

Bolts protect the route solidly; quickdraws are essential. The anchor is shared with the adjacent 10 Algo, facilitating safe and quick rappelling or lowering. Bring lightweight rack gear—there's no need for trad protection here, but sharp shoes and a few slings or a personal anchor system add comfort on the anchor.

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Tags

sharp edges
hand jamming
mantle move
sport route
Mexican limestone
single pitch
shared anchor