"Agua de Coco is a three-pitch sport climb on the towering TNT Wall at El Potrero Chico, combining technical 5.10 sequences with exposed runouts. This route demands steady focus and offers climbers an immersive desert limestone experience with rewarding views from the ridge."
Agua de Coco on the TNT Wall stands as a compelling test for climbers seeking sustained sport routes in the vibrant limestone cliffs of El Potrero Chico, Northern Mexico. Spanning roughly 350 feet across three pitches, the climb offers a progression through varied challenges, each pitch demanding sharp technique and careful attention to protection. The first pitch kicks off with a bright 5.10d crux, propelling you up 37 meters of sharply featured rock that both tests finger strength and rewards precise footwork. The limestone hugs your fingertips with small pockets and edges that invite calm focus under pressure.
Pitch two eases slightly to 5.10b across a 33-meter section, where the rock opens just enough to allow a rhythm to form amid occasional rests. Expect pockets and side pulls that coax upward movement here. The final pitch shifts into a 5.10a range, extending approximately 40 meters with a notable sub-anchor station along the way. Long runouts on this stretch demand confident climbing and mental steadiness as you push toward the top ridge. Nearing the summit, a brief 5.7 section provides a welcome breather on easier terrain before you step onto the ridge crest, catching the expansive views that stretch across the Northern Mexican landscape, with dry heat blending into the scent of desert scrub.
Accessing Agua de Coco involves a moderate approach into the heart of the TNT Wall sector, a favored zone within El Potrero Chico renowned for its steep limestone faces and consistent sport routes. The setting’s dry air and bright sun characterize much of the year, though mornings and late afternoons bring cooler conditions, ideal for climbing. Gear requirements are straightforward—bolts protect the route extensively, though some long runouts near the top pitch suggest bringing a steady head and trusting your ability to manage exposure.
Descent can be executed by rappelling straight down with a single 70m rope, bypassing the traversing pitches that otherwise compose the climb’s approach to the ridge. Note that it isn’t possible to rappel from the first pitch anchor using a 70m, so plan to continue at least to the second pitch anchors before setting up your rappel. This practical detail underscores the importance of planning rope management carefully before committing.
With an average star rating reflecting its popularity balanced by technical demands, Agua de Coco represents a solid step into sustained sport climbing within an iconic climbing destination. The route challenges climbers to maintain focus across sharp sequences while soaking in the distinct desert environment, making it a rewarding experience for those prepared with proper footwear, hydration, and a mindset tuned to steady execution under sunlit skies.
Be cautious with rope management on the rappel; the first pitch anchor doesn’t accommodate a single 70m rope rappel. The upper pitches feature extended runouts, so build confidence before moving through these more exposed sections. Watch the rock carefully on ledges where loose debris can accumulate due to desert winds.
Start early to avoid peak heat and enjoy cooler morning conditions on the wall.
Bring plenty of water—the dry desert sun quickly draws moisture.
Double-check your rappel setup to avoid getting stuck on the first anchor.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to manage the sharp limestone edges.
The climb is fully bolted, making quickdraws the key gear. While protection is straightforward, longer runouts are present on the upper pitches, so stay mentally ready for exposure. A 70m rope covers the rappels if you descend from the second pitch anchors downward, as the first pitch anchor cannot be safely rigged with a single 70m.
Upload your photos of Agua de Coco and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.