HomeClimbingAgent Smith

Agent Smith: A Bold Trad Climb on McQuirks Mountain

Moncton, Canada
slab
trad
single pitch
limited protection
southern exposure
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Agent Smith
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Agent Smith offers a solid slab trad climb at McQuirks Mountain, blending careful gear placements with a fun upper section that invites climbers to refine their slab skills. Perfect for those seeking a technical balance of focus and flow on a single pitch."

Agent Smith: A Bold Trad Climb on McQuirks Mountain

Agent Smith carves a straightforward yet engaging line up a South-facing slab on McQuirks Mountain, inviting climbers who appreciate moderate adventure with a touch of challenge. The route stretches about 90 feet over a single pitch, starting with a lower angled slab section where the crux awaits — a subtle but definite test of balance and smarts rather than raw power. Protection is sparse here, demanding confidence and careful gear placement from the lead climber. The upper half opens into cleaner climbing with more fun, easier moves that reward careful footwork and route reading.

Located in New Brunswick, Canada, McQuirks Mountain offers an accessible outing with a rugged feel. The approach is short, making it ideal for climbers looking to maximize their time on the rock without a long trek into the backcountry. The area’s natural character shines through its mixed forest and exposed rock faces that catch the sun late in the day, warming the stone and making for pleasant afternoon climbs.

Gear up with a single rack extending to 3 inches, as larger placements are rare, and rely on a solid tree anchor at the top. This route's protection demands mindful placement—cracks are few and far between, especially low on the slab, highlighting the importance of solid trad experience. You'll find your feet working as hard as your hands as the slab tests your balance and precision.

Safety on Agent Smith hinges on reading the rock and placing gear conservatively given the “PG13” rating, which signals some runout sections. Although the upper climbs flow nicely, the lower crux can catch climbers off-guard if handled too casually. Seasonally, spring through fall provides the best conditions—winter ice and snow make this modest slab a more serious undertaking.

Whether you’re sharpening trad technique or craving a grounded climb with approachable difficulty, Agent Smith offers a direct engagement with the rock and straightforward logistics. The climb doesn’t overstay its welcome but leaves a clear impression of its demands, rewarding respect for the subtle challenges it presents.

Climber Safety

Protection scarcity on the lower slab means falls here could be longer and more serious. Careful gear placements and conservative climbing approach are essential. Avoid attempting the route when wet or icy to prevent slipping on slick slabs.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the slab.

Focus on footwork in the crux, it’s more about balance than strength.

Inspect gear carefully; some placements can feel marginal.

Bring enough water—the approach is short but potentially hot.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 PG13 rating communicates a moderate climb with some runout sections especially on the slab’s lower portion. The crux is a delicate balance test, not brute difficulty, making the grade feel true but requiring solid technique and caution. Compared to nearby trad routes in New Brunswick, Agent Smith leans into trust-your-feet slab climbing rather than crack gym style.

Gear Requirements

Bring a single rack up to 3 inches for protection; larger placements are scarce. Anchor with a sturdy tree at the top. Low-angle slab section requires careful gear placements due to limited crack size.

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Tags

slab
trad
single pitch
limited protection
southern exposure