"AF challenges climbers with a gritty approach into a vast chimney on Devil’s Head. This two-pitch sport route blends sustained chimney movement with a technical slab crux, offering an engaging taste of Colorado's rugged cliffs."
Situated on the rugged cliffs of Recovery Wall, just off the South Platte River in Colorado, AF offers climbers a compelling yet manageable two-pitch sport route that demands both focus and finesse. As you approach this towering formation, the granite surface looms with a raw, weathered presence—its cracks and slabs inviting a dynamic sequence of moves amid a quiet alpine setting. The first pitch begins with a deceptively straightforward scramble across a gritty, somewhat loose section that tests your ability to maintain composure on less-than-perfect holds. From there, you pivot into the vast embrace of a giant chimney. This natural fissure presses in on either side like the walls of a narrowing canyon, inviting you to wedge your body between rock faces and chimney your way upward. With your back pressed against one side and feet firmly planted on the opposite wall, the chimney becomes an interactive opponent, pushing and pulling at your limbs as you ascend.
The route’s defining challenge lies about 30 feet up where the wide chimney forces you into a more technical sequence. Here, a bold move requires stepping out of the protective crack and onto an exposed slab. This transition is the crux—demanding solid foot placement and confident balance to manage the slick granite surface while reaching for the upper anchors. Finish strong as you pull yourself to the final belay, where sunlit ledges provide a moment to savor sweeping views of Devil’s Head and the surrounding forested cliffs.
Despite its moderate 5.9 PG13 rating, AF feels more demanding than the grade suggests, primarily due to the sustained chimney climbing and an awkward crux that challenges your control and composure. The route’s sport clip placements are straightforward, yet the runout section at the base commands respect. Quickdraws are essential but expect some runs between protection points, putting a premium on careful movement and mental steadiness.
Approaching this wall from the south side involves a short but rocky trail that winds through piñon pine and scrub oak, adding quiet woodland ambiance to your climb’s start. It’s best to time your ascent in the morning or late afternoon; midday sun can bake the slabs, diminishing friction and increasing fatigue. Carry plenty of water to stay refreshed, along with sturdy climbing shoes that grip well on slabby granite and protect your feet during the chimney squeeze.
Descent is straightforward with a double rope rappel from the top anchors, but be cautious of loose rock around the belay. This route rewards climbers who carefully balance adventure with patience, delivering a memorable test of chimney techniques framed by Colorado’s bold granite terrain.
Mind the initial runout section on loose and dirty rock; falling here can result in swinging or hitting ledges. The chimney narrows but remains stable—watch for loose flakes near the anchors. Always double-check your rappel setup at the top.
Start early to avoid hot granite during midday sun.
Wear shoes with good slab friction to handle the crux slab section.
Carry at least 12 quickdraws for smooth clipping on both pitches.
Check weather beforehand—wet rock can make chimney moves slippery and hazardous.
Pack quickdraws to clip fixed bolts, especially for the upper slab section. The early chimney requires body positioning over technical weaponry, so focus on comfortable shoes and climbing technique rather than heavy gear.
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