"Addicted to War tackles slick flow stone and a powerful bulge in a single pitch of technical sport climbing on Vancouver Island. Well-protected with fixed gear, it offers a focused challenge for climbers looking to test precision and power in a compact but demanding route."
Addicted to War stands out on Vancouver Island as a sport climb that challenges you with a dynamic blend of flow stone maneuvers and a technical bulge that demands precise footwork and steady composure. The route begins just to the left of the classic climb You Enjoy Myself, inviting you to move fluidly up slick, polished stone that almost glows when caught by the diffused light filtering through the forest canopy. Your hands find purchase on smooth but reliable holds as you approach a distinctive small roof—this is where the climb sharpens in intensity. Shifting left, you navigate a purposeful knob that serves as a fleeting anchor point before launching yourself over the bulge, where power and finesse meet.
This single-pitch ascent measures modestly in length but packs an adventurous punch thanks to its well-protected, fixed gear bolts that give confidence as you push through the crux sequence. Reaching the top, you'll clip anchors hanging from a striking stalactite, a rare and memorable feature that feels like a reward for your effort. The rock here wears the character of Vancouver Island—slick but defined, demanding attention and respect.
Accessing Addicted to War is straightforward from the Horne Lake area, making it a perfect afternoon project or part of a climbing day that explores the region’s diverse offerings. Given its sport classification, climbers can focus on movement and technique without the added burden of gear placement, but the grade 5.11a ensures that this climb stays honest, suitable for those ready to test finger strength and body tension. For those coming from nearby Vancouver or beyond, the route's setting offers both the thrill of technical moves and a sensory connection to the rugged island landscape—pine-scented air, the murmur of distant wildlife, and glimpses of the sprawling wilderness beyond the trees.
Planning your ascent means preparing for variable conditions: Vancouver Island’s climate can shift quickly, so sturdy, sticky shoes and a chalk bag are essentials. Start early to avoid the afternoon’s heavier sun and potential moisture on the rock, which can dull friction. Hydrate well, since the approach trails wind through dense forest and beneath towering firs that shield you from direct heat but hide the exertion.
Whether you're ticking a mid-level project or fine-tuning skills for harder pitches, Addicted to War offers a concise, powerful experience fueled by its unique features—the flow stone and bold roof sequence—and the promise of clean anchor clipping off that unusual stalactite. This climb encourages deliberate pacing, rewarding climbers who observe the texture of the holds and move thoughtfully through the crux, transforming the climb into both a physical challenge and a brief, intense dialogue with the stone.
While fixed gear anchors are reliable, the flow stone can become slippery when damp. Avoid climbing after rainfall or during high humidity to reduce slip hazards. The small roof requires precise movement; misjudging holds here can result in a fall onto ledges below, so focus on controlled climbing.
Arrive early to avoid wet rock in the afternoon and maximize friction.
Wear sticky climbing shoes to handle the polished flow stone effectively.
Carry sufficient chalk to maintain grip during the technical crux moves.
The approach trail is forested but clear; watch for roots and wet patches after rain.
This climb features fixed hardware throughout, allowing climbers to concentrate on movement without stopping for gear placement. Bring standard sport climbing gear such as quickdraws matched to the fixed bolts, and ensure your shoes provide excellent friction to manage the flow stone texture.
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