"Adam’s Rib is a demanding alpine trad climb on Wells Peak’s Rabbit Ear, offering eight pitches of runout face climbing with a gritty, vintage feel. This route rewards steady feet and a cool head, testing your mettle under the California high country sun."
Rising sharply on the right Rabbit Ear of Wells Peak, Adam’s Rib commands respect with its unapologetic alpine grit and old-school character. This eight-pitch, 1000-foot route cuts a striking line over textured granite, where every move tests both your skill and mental toughness. The rock doesn’t just stand still—it dares you forward with its slightly rough friction slabs, sparse protection, and unexpected mantle moves that force you to trust your feet and stay calm under pressure. The atmosphere is raw and exposed, offering sweeping views of the Sierra Eastside’s rugged contours and the sprawling Bishop Area below, grounding you in the vastness of this climbing frontier.
Starting with a vertical, pencil-wide black dike on the first pitch, this climb immediately sets a tone of confident, clean moves peppered with runout sections that cause serious adrenaline spikes. Protection is lean, featuring a mix of thin original bolts—dating back to 1972—and carefully placed natural gear that requires a steady hand and thoughtful choices, especially between pitches three through six, where the cruxes meld technical face climbing with the constant reality of serious consequence. The moderately sustained pitches ranging from 5.7R to 5.10a R challenge climbers both physically and mentally, rewarding those who come prepared with strong friction technique and the composure to handle runouts.
The route’s positioning on the rock means the early morning sun bathes the face, warming the cold granite and making dry friction reliable, while afternoon brings cooling shadows—ideal timing for longer ascents to avoid midday heat. Given the route’s alpine setting, the approach itself offers a mixed experience of pine-scented forest trails and class 2 scrambling, requiring roughly an hour of careful navigation to arrive at the base. Detailed GPS waypoints put you on track, but experienced climbers will want to remain alert as the terrain around Wells Peak can shift with weather and seasons.
Gear-wise, a single rack of cams and stoppers up to 4 inches is sufficient, but selective placements demand a confident eye. With the original quarter-inch bolts still in place, it’s wise to treat each clip with respect and anticipate runouts as integral to the climbing experience. The route’s character is best appreciated by climbers comfortable with a 5.10a free-solo mindset—aware of the exposure yet drawn to the flow of technical face climbing combined with the alpine ambiance.
Despite the bold nature, Adam’s Rib remains a classic test-piece in the Wheeler Crest zone. It’s not for casual visits but rather for those eager to engage with a demanding and historic trad line that offers not just physical challenge but a deep connection to the Sierra’s wild edge. Descent follows a cautious rappel sequence down the gully, where loose rock and brush demand deliberate movement. Planning for hydration, sun protection on approach, and solid footwear for rough terrain rounds out this indispensable alpine adventure.
Adventurers who savor a blend of pure climbing skill, mental steadiness, and alpine environment will find Adam’s Rib a route that leaves lasting impressions. This climb pushes you to listen closely to the rock, trust your instincts, and meet the mountain on its own terms.
Given the vintage quarter-inch bolts and substantial spacing between protection, climbers should treat each pitch with heightened caution, maintaining clear communication and being ready for potential swings or pendulums. The descent rappel down a brushy gully includes loose rock hazards—careful foot placement and a stable rappel setup are essential.
Start early to benefit from morning sun warming the face and ensuring good friction.
Bring reliable friction-friendly shoes for slab sections where secure footwork is vital.
Plan extra time for a careful approach through mixed forest trails and scrambling terrain.
Check anchor integrity carefully and be prepared for occasional unmarked belays.
A single rack of cams and stoppers to 4 inches covers the needed protection. The original quarter-inch bolts should be approached with caution, as many pitches have significant runouts requiring strong gear placements and confident clipping technique.
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