"Spanning three commanding peaks, the Adamant-Turret-Austerity Traverse offers one of the Selkirk Mountains’ most enduring alpine challenges. This mixed rock and snow route stretches climbers across ridges and glaciers with steady technical demands and breathtaking, isolated mountain views."
The Adamant-Turret-Austerity Traverse stands as one of the most rewarding alpine climbs in the Selkirk Mountains, weaving together snow, rock, and ridge in a sequence that challenges both skill and stamina. Beginning from the left flank of Turret Glacier, the route invites you into a high-altitude world where jagged ridges rise sharply under wide open skies and snowfields beckon with crisp, clean air. Each step pulls you further from the familiar, as the landscape pushes forward with rugged, uncompromising beauty.
The approach to the North Ridge of Adamant places you on terrain that alternates between solid Class 4 scrambling and brief technical moves rated at 5.4, all while snow patches soften the granite edges. The ridge itself rides a fine crest that’s exposed but generously hand-hold rich, demanding steady nerves and purposeful footwork. From Adamant’s summit, the descent westward is a short rappel or scramble, neatly funneling climbers into the saddle between peaks.
Ascending Turret’s snow arete offers an exhilarating stretch, where icy wind and firm snow test balance and decision-making. This section pushes the grade upwards if tackled in reverse, requiring firm alpine skills and confidence in snow travel. From the summit of Turret, a controlled rappel drops you into the col below before you take on the East Ridge of Austerity, a mix of airy Class 4 terrain and easy 5th class moves. Rock quality remains trustworthy though you’ll still want to check placements carefully and move deliberately.
The descent traces Austerity’s standard route down to Granite Glacier, offering a mix of loose rock and scree slopes that demand attentive footwork even as you begin to relax from the climb. This traverse stitches together three distinct summits, exposing climbers to changing elements and the evolving challenge of mixed rock-snow conditions. Geared with a traditional rack focusing on protections sized between 2" and 3", and supplemented by slings or disposable nuts for the rappels, the climb strikes a balance of risk and adventure in true alpine style.
Though the route’s length calls for endurance and clear headspace, the rewards are vast: vast panoramas stretching over the Columbia Mountains, crisp mountain air filled with the low whistle of wind through ice and rock, and the lively thrill of moving through a high mountain environment shaped by season and weather. The route is best attempted in late summer when snow is firm but accessible, and the days offer extended light for comfortable pacing. Approach trails demand attention for footing and navigation with GPS coordinates helping anchor your route-finding amidst complex terrain.
This traverse appeals to climbers seeking an experience beyond the ordinary—a sustained high-level adventure that blends technical moves, snow travel, and ridge walking, all framed by the grandeur of British Columbia's Selkirks. Preparation is key: bring adequate hydration, layered clothing suited for quick changes in weather, and sharp attention to safety during rappels and snow sections. This isn’t a route to rush; each section demands respect and measured commitment. For those who embrace the challenge, Adamant-Turret-Austerity offers a deeply satisfying alpine journey with panoramic rewards and a lasting sense of mountain accomplishment.
Watch carefully for changing snow consistency on the aretes and glaciers, especially after warm afternoons. The rappels require sturdy, sometimes disposable protection—double-check anchor integrity to avoid surprises. Loose rock on descents demands attentive footing, especially when fatigued.
Start early in the day to maximize light and stable snow conditions on the aretes.
Pack layered clothing for rapidly changing alpine weather.
Bring GPS and route descriptions to aid navigation on the glacier approach and descents.
Prepare for mixed climbing—proficiency in both snow travel and moderate rock climbing is essential.
Standard trad rack focusing on cams in the 2 to 3-inch range suits most placements. Disposable slings and possibly expendable nuts or pitons are recommended for the rappels, which are short but require secure anchors.
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