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Acid House: A Technical Trad Challenge at Dinosaur Crag

Lee Vining, California USA
finger crack
small gear
roof move
single pitch
east-facing
trad climb
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Acid House
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Acid House challenges climbers with a technical 5.10a trad pitch at Dinosaur Crag. Starting just beside the famed Dinosaur Exhibit, the route features a small roof and thin, right-leaning cracks leading to a broad ledge half-way up the wall."

Acid House: A Technical Trad Challenge at Dinosaur Crag

Acid House commands attention on the rugged face of Dinosaur Crag, offering climbers a concentrated burst of technical trad climbing packed into a 60-foot single pitch. Located along the Tioga Road corridor in California’s Sierra Eastside, this route challenges with its demanding 5.10a PG13 rating, requiring precise hand jams and delicate foot placements on a sequence of right-leaning cracks. The climb begins just right of the prominent "Dinosaur Exhibit," where a small roof presents the initial hurdle—a physical move that separates fleeting attempts from solid sends. Above, the route flows into a series of thin, rightward slanting cracks that demand focus and finesse as they thread up to a broad ledge roughly halfway up the crag.

The setting here captures the raw granite character typical of this high-elevation eastside corridor, with clear views of the surrounding rock-strewn landscape and the distant Sierra peaks. The air is crisp, often carrying the scent of pine from nearby groves, while the sound of wind brushing past the rocks punctuates the solitude. This route is both a test of technique and a study in subtle rock features—tiny placements become crucial as the protection requires small cams and nuts to be carefully positioned. Natural anchors can be confidently built on the roomy ledge at the top, offering a secure finish after the stretch of sustained climbing.

For climbers eyeing Acid House, preparation means honing crack climbing skills and packing a rack tailored for small pro. The approach along Tioga Road is straightforward, with trailheads accessible within moderate driving distance. Once at Dinosaur Crag, the walk-in is short but over uneven terrain, making supportive footwear essential. Early morning ascents are ideal to avoid the potentially harsh sun bearing down on the crag’s east-facing wall, especially during warmer months. With its compact yet demanding profile, Acid House attracts those looking to sharpen their trad proficiency in an uncluttered alpine setting.

Beyond the physical challenge, the climb offers a direct connection to the local geology and the landscape’s stark beauty. The rock’s texture and angle push climbers into mindful movement, while the elevated perch above Lee Vining Canyon invites a pause to appreciate the vast expanse stretching beneath. It's a route that rewards commitment and patience with the satisfaction of clean calls on thin gear and exacting sequences. Expect a quiet, focused experience where nature’s rugged persona engages you at every move.

Climber Safety

Protection is limited to tiny to small gear placements; runners must be comfortable with smaller cams and nuts. The roof move demands stability—take care to manage swinging falls. The ledge at the top is broad but watch footing as it slopes gently.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach is a short hike from the Tioga Road parking area—wear sturdy shoes for uneven footing.

Aim for early morning climbs to avoid heat, as the route faces east and gets direct sun later in the day.

Focus on finger and hand crack technique; placements are small and require precise gear placement.

Build anchors on the ledge at the top using natural features—avoid fixed gear as protection is sparse.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a PG13, Acid House combines a physical roof move with a sequence of thin cracks that push climbers’ finger strength and placement skills. The PG13 suggests some runout sections—gear needs to be precise and confidence in small pro is a must. Compared to other Dinosaur Crag routes, this climb feels stiffer due to its awkward roof and delicate crack system.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack stocked with tiny to small-sized cams and nuts capable of fitting narrow cracks. Natural gear placements are essential throughout, with a broad ledge atop offering solid anchor-building opportunities.

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Tags

finger crack
small gear
roof move
single pitch
east-facing
trad climb