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Acetylcholine at Shelf Road: A Compact Sport Climb with Chimney Character

Canon City, Colorado United States
chimney
sport
single pitch
technical finish
limestone
stem
small ledge
shade in chimney
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Acetylcholine
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Acetylcholine is a distinctive single-pitch sport climb on Shelf Road offering an engaging chimney system that widens as you ascend, followed by technical face moves to a rewarding finish. Perfect for climbers eager to sharpen chimney and face climbing skills with solid protection and compact routeside charm."

Acetylcholine at Shelf Road: A Compact Sport Climb with Chimney Character

Acetylcholine offers climbers a fresh approach to the classic Shelf Road experience, standing out as a distinctive single-pitch challenge amid the canyon’s expansive walls. This route channels its energy through a unique inside chimney, formed by a leaning flake that juts outward near the more frequented Enchanted Porkfist. From the first move, you step into a shifting corridor of rock that tests your body positioning and footwork as the chimney opens gently wider with each upward reach. The chimney's embrace demands thoughtful stemming, pushing you to engage core strength and balance, while the cool shadows inside the slot provide relief from the canyon’s sunlit heat.

Leaving the chimney behind, the climb transitions into face holds that shift rhythm, rewarding steady hand jams and precise foot placements. A small ledge halfway up offers the perfect spot to pause, shake out tight forearms, and prepare for the wall’s final puzzle. The headwall above demands a touch of technical finesse, where subtle holds invite delicate movement and controlled bursts of power to finish strong.

Though only 50 feet in length, Acetylcholine's compact footprint packs a variety of climbing styles that appeal to those looking to expand their skill set beyond straightforward sport routes. Its bolt-protected line, with six bolts plus a two-bolt anchor, delivers confidence for sending while still preserving moments of careful, thoughtful climbing. The moderate 5.9 rating speaks to a route that’s approachable for intermediate climbers ready to sharpen their chimney and face climbing skills, but it won’t let you relax—a steady focus carries you all the way.

This climb sits just outside Canon City in Colorado, perched in the rocky enclave of Shelf Road, a destination famous for its diverse limestone walls and scenic canyon views. The approach to Acetylcholine is a brief, rocky venture from the parking area, trekking over well-worn paths that thread through sparse brush and sun-warmed stone. Given its south-facing wall, early morning ascents are recommended to enjoy cooler conditions and beat the afternoon sun that drenches the cliff.

Packing light but well-rounded gear is key: a set of quickdraws, well-fitted climbing shoes with good edging capability, and a helmet to manage the occasional loose rock around the leaning flake. Water and sun protection should never be underestimated here, especially when the sun’s thermal push can drain energy rapidly. Whether you're chasing a quick link in your project list or hunting for a dynamic sport route that challenges more than just athleticism, Acetylcholine stands as a worthy piece of Shelf Road’s climbing puzzle.

This route is an excellent introduction to chimney climbing, blending technical moves with solid protection and engaging rock quality. It provides a snapshot of the geological drama playing out in Shelf Road’s canyon walls, delivering a brief but satisfying encounter with Colorado's limestone cliffs. For climbers hungry for variety and a touch of adventure just minutes from a well-serviced town, Acetylcholine invites you to bring your focus, feet, and fingers to the game.

Climber Safety

While the route is well-protected with bolts, climbers should remain cautious around the detached leaning flake, as loose rock can present hazards. Wearing a helmet is advised to guard against unexpected debris. The mini-ledge, while a solid rest, requires attention in low grip conditions.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the afternoon heat on the south-facing wall.

Bring adequate water and sun protection for the ascent and approach.

Focus on precise footwork during chimney stemming for smoother movement.

Use the mini-ledge midway for a controlled shake before the technical headwall.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating for Acetylcholine sits comfortably for intermediate climbers, neither soft nor overly stiff, but the chimney section introduces a crux that demands body control beyond straightforward face climbing. Compared to other Shelf Road sport routes, it stands out by mixing chimney moves with technical headwall climbing, making it an excellent skill-builder with a balanced difficulty curve.

Gear Requirements

Six bolts protect the route with a two-bolt anchor for a secure top-out. Quickdraws and well-edged climbing shoes are essential, alongside a helmet for occasional loose rock near the leaning flake section.

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Tags

chimney
sport
single pitch
technical finish
limestone
stem
small ledge
shade in chimney