"Ace Cashier offers a compact, vertical dihedral in Owens River Gorge with a distinct crux beneath a tilted triangular block. Well-protected and focused, it’s a compelling test for climbers moving into steeper cracks amidst California’s dry granite walls."
Ace Cashier stands out as a focused, spirited sport climb set within the iconic Owens River Gorge. This route carves a straightforward vertical dihedral over 40 feet, inviting climbers to navigate a crisp crack system that demands both precision and commitment. The crux appears just below the dihedral section where a distinctive triangular block, leaning slightly on the left, introduces a subtle but powerful test of finger strength and body positioning. Pushed between the 3rd and 4th bolts, this move requires a mental sharpness as much as physical control, demanding smooth hand jams and steady footwork to maintain momentum.
The climb is protected by six well-spaced bolts, offering a reliable safety net while still encouraging confident clipping and route reading. It shares its anchor station with the adjacent harder route Mini Me (5.11d), making lowering or top-rope setups convenient for those moving among climbs in the Upper Gorge area. As you approach, the rock's texture provides solid friction, a granitic surface that rewards clean smearing and trusting your feet even on minimal holds.
Owens River Gorge itself roars with a rugged charm: the cliff faces rise sharply from a dry riverbed, the heat bouncing off sun-soaked granite during summer afternoons. Early mornings or late evenings offer welcome relief and softer light, casting long shadows into the cracks and making holds easier to spot. The surrounding terrain is arid but not barren—sparse juniper and sagebrush cling to ledges nearby, their subtle rustling hinting at desert wildlife going about its day beyond human sight.
Practical considerations include bringing climbing shoes with firm edging capabilities and an extra chalk bag, as the dihedral’s friction can dry out hands quickly. Hydration is crucial here; the warm climate and the sun’s unfiltered gaze on the gorge can sap energy fast. Accessing Ace Cashier involves a moderate hike over rocky, uneven ground from the main trailhead, so sturdy footwear on the approach is recommended.
In terms of experience, Ace Cashier fits well for climbers looking to test themselves on sustained vertical cracks without the burden of extreme difficulty. The route offers a tangible sense of progression from beginner cracks to steeper, more technical climbs nearby, making it a solid addition to any Owens River Gorge day. Its concise length and focused challenge leave room for multiple sends or the chance to torch arms on nearby routes thereafter.
In short, Ace Cashier invites you to engage with classic Owens River climbing: granite, grips, and that persistent pull upward. It’s a route that rewards preparation, respects modest nerves, and promises a quick yet memorable climb under the California sun.
Watch your clipping near the crux bolts, as the slight overlap of the triangular block can disrupt smooth quickdraw placements. The rock is solid but the narrow ledges below offer little room for error during rests or falls.
Bring climbing shoes with strong edging for secure footholds on granite friction.
Start early or plan late sessions to avoid the midday heat that bakes the gorge.
Carry ample water; hydration is critical on this exposed, sunlit wall.
Approach involves rocky terrain—wear durable shoes and expect about a 20-minute hike from the trailhead.
Route is secured with six bolts, easing protection while demanding good clipping technique. Shared anchors with Mini Me (5.11d) simplify lowering or top-rope setup.
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