"Tucked along Lower Brother's north face, Absolutely Free, Center challenges climbers with remote approach and engaging three-pitch granite climbing. This trad route rewards effort with classic Yosemite crack systems and quiet solitude away from the crowds."
Absolutely Free, Center stands as a quietly demanding adventure tucked away on Lower Brother’s rugged face in Yosemite National Park. Its position on the valley’s north side promises an immersive blend of remote wilderness and iconic granite climbing. From the start, the approach sets the tone—a rugged maze of scrambling and faint trails that prepares you for the challenge ahead. Moving right from the toe of Lower Brother and then left at the major ramp system, you’ll face about 250 feet of unroped fourth- and easy fifth-class scrambling to reach the base. This approach isn’t a casual stroll; expect textured rock underfoot and the kind of shifting footing that keeps your focus sharp.
The climb itself unfolds over three pitches, each offering its own chapter in a compelling narrative of Yosemite trad climbing. The first pitch gives you a choice between an exciting 5.7 chimney or a more technical 5.9 flake. Many lean toward the chimney for its pure hands-on granite challenge—a tight, twisting passage demanding precise body positioning and steady nerves. Reach the belay perched on the highest ledge below a flawless thin-hands splitter, a natural frame for what’s next.
Pitch two climbs this splitter, a clean crack slicing through the rock with inviting handholds and off-hands that gently test your technique. The pitch features an awkward bulge and a small horn that compel deliberate moves, a reminder that Yosemite granite always keeps you attentive. Keep an eye out for the old bolt casing—it can serve as an optional belay spot if the party around you needs a pause. Continue up to a comfortable ledge shaded by trees, a welcome respite after roughly 175 feet of steady climbing.
The final pitch offers a couple of line options but the groove to the off-width corner is the natural finish. The off-width might look intimidating, but with practiced lieback moves and a well-placed 5-inch cam, it’s conquerable even for those less at ease with wide cracks. Above the off-width, a chimney section rounds out the pitch before you settle at a ledge that feels earned by effort and focus alike.
Protection considerations for this route are important: bring a range of nuts and cams, emphasizing doubles in the 0.6-3 inch range, plus a single 4-inch cam. An optional 1.5-3 inch set and a 5-inch piece can provide added security, especially on the wider sections. Slings round out your rack for anchors and potential extensions.
This climb rewards those who come prepared for its exacting granite and route-finding challenges. The descent is equally demanding, requiring attention and steady footing on loose terrain. Despite the effort, the solitude and granite purity make Absolutely Free, Center a rewarding escape into Yosemite’s more rugged climbing corners, perfect for those seeking adventure beyond the busier valley walls.
The approach involves about 250 feet of scrambling that can be loose and exposes climbers to fall risk—use caution and avoid this route when the rock is wet. The descent is long and requires careful route-finding, so be prepared with maps and headlamps if necessary. Some ledges are small and exposed; secure anchors diligently.
Start early to avoid hot afternoon sun on the approach and lower pitches.
Prepare for some loose rock on the scramble—wear sturdy trail shoes and stay vigilant.
Use a guidebook or topo for navigation; the approach trail can be faint and confusing.
Bring plenty of water and snacks—there’s no reliable source nearby and the scramble is demanding.
This climb calls for a solid rack of nuts and cams, focusing on doubles in 0.6" to 3" sizes, with a single 4" cam. Bringing optional extras in the 1.5" to 3" range and a 5" piece is advised for wider crack sections. Slings are essential for anchors and extending placements on ledges and tricky spots.
Upload your photos of Absolutely Free, Center and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.