"Climb the steep east face of Long’s Folly on Abner Bear is Everywhere, a spirited 80-foot sport route guarded by six bolts. This pitch blends juggy holds with heartfelt history, perched on the edge of the San Andreas Fault."
Abner Bear is Everywhere climbs the sheer east face of Long's Folly, rising directly above the High Peaks Trail within Pinnacles National Park. This single-pitch sport route unfolds over 80 feet of juggy, confident climbing, where solid edges and carefully placed pockets form a natural handhold map inviting steady progress. Four bolts guard the route, setting a secure rhythm as you ascend features that demand precise footwork and a firm grip. Nearing the top, two additional bolts mark the halfway rappel anchor, a useful stop to pause and stagger your effort before reaching the summit. From here, expanses of the Central Coast stretch outward, and keen eyes may catch the rare silhouette of California Condors—gliding spirits that command the skies above the fault line.
The climb’s story is as gripping as its moves. It was established on a day marked by tremors—on the morning of a significant San Andreas Fault earthquake that claimed lives miles away in Paso Robles. As Clint drilled the second bolt at 11:15 AM, the entire pinnacle swayed underfoot. The rock, almost alive, challenged the climber’s resolve to press on, embodying the unpredictable pulse of this fractured landscape. This route, alongside Andy's Sunset, stands as a tribute to Andy Artz, a longtime ranger and beloved figure among the Pinnacles climbing community. Andy was known to carry a stuffed bear named Abner clipped to his pack, an enduring emblem of his presence on these rocks.
Approaching Long’s Folly is straightforward, with the High Peaks Trail offering well-marked access through dry chaparral and rugged scrub. The trek takes roughly 30 minutes from the trailhead, winding a path that builds anticipation with panoramic views of the shifting rock faces and the distant Pacific horizon in the distance. Wear sturdy shoes, bring plenty of water, and time your climb to avoid the midday sun—the east face bakes quickly and offers little shade.
Protection on Abner Bear is streamlined and reliable: six bolts lead the way to a two-bolt anchor equipped with chains, making the descent a smooth, single rappel back to the base. The rock quality is sound, though occasional sand pockets demand cautious placements and a steady hand. Given its position directly on the San Andreas Fault, be mindful of changing weather and the potential for loose rock near the anchor. The route offers a balanced challenge for intermediate sport climbers seeking a clear, engaging pitch with historical weight and natural beauty. This climb reflects the rugged character of Pinnacles National Park—raw, approachable, and charged with stories etched into every handhold.
While the route is bolted and the rock generally solid, be aware of potential loose debris near the anchor and the seismic nature of the region. Avoid climbing during or immediately after heavy rain, as pockets may hold slippery residue, and rockfall risk can increase.
Start early to beat the afternoon heat on the exposed east face.
Keep an eye on weather forecasts; the area is seismically active.
Watch for California Condors soaring above, especially near the summit.
Approach via High Peaks Trail; it’s a steady 30-minute hike with clear markers.
Six bolts protect the climb leading to a two-bolt, chained anchor. The route features solid placements on juggy knobs, edges, and pockets with no mandatory gear beyond the fixed bolts. Expect reliable protection suitable for intermediate sport climbers.
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