Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingAbandon All Hope Ye Who Enters Here

Abandon All Hope Ye Who Enters Here

Twentynine Palms, California United States
wide crack
chimney
exfoliating rock
desert
trad
single pitch
Length: 25 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Abandon All Hope Ye Who Enters Here
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"This gritty 25-foot trad climb in Joshua Tree’s Roadside Rocks sector tests your grip on a rough, exfoliating chimney. Suited for wide crack enthusiasts, it offers a sharp, focused challenge away from the busy desert crowds."

Abandon All Hope Ye Who Enters Here

Abandon All Hope Ye Who Enters Here is a gritstone challenge tucked within the Roadside Rocks sector of Joshua Tree National Park, California. This single-pitch trad route spans a modest 25 feet but demands deliberate focus, especially as you engage with its tricky chimney feature. The stone’s exfoliating layers provide a tactile experience not often found in the desert’s more polished formations, warning climbers to be cautious with each movement. This climb attracts a specific breed of adventurer—those who appreciate the technical demands of wide crack climbing and have patience to navigate the route’s loose traffic-worn holds.

Approaching the climb, the landscape opens to broad desert views, warmed by the relentless sun typical of Joshua Tree. The rock seems to push and pull against the wind, daring you to stake your claim on its fragile holds. Protection calls for a full rack up to a #6 Camalot, aimed at ensuring stability in a climb where careful placements are key. The PG13 rating hints at the route’s exposed nature and the necessity of solid gear management to keep risks manageable.

While not a polished gem, this route’s charm lies in its raw, unrefined character. Climbers with a penchant for wide cracks and chimney techniques will find rewards in the tactile challenge beneath the desert sky. The short length means strategy and precision outweigh endurance, making it suitable for those looking to sharpen trad skills without a long approach or complex descent.

Timing your ascent is crucial. Midday sun can bake the rock, adding another layer of difficulty, so early morning ventures offer cooler conditions and a chance to enjoy the surrounding landscape waking up with subtle shadows and desert breezes. With only two recorded ascents, this route stands apart from the crowds, inviting climbers seeking a quieter, more deliberate Joshua Tree experience.

Learning to read the rock here is half the puzzle; loose flakes and unsettled holds test your judgment and footwork nearly as much as the moves themselves. Hydration and sun protection are essential, given Joshua Tree’s arid environment and sparse shade on this wall. Prepare for a brief but intense encounter with rock that defies the polished ideals of the park’s popular climbs, offering instead a rugged slice of trad tradition at its most elemental.

From the approach to the descent, this route keeps you connected to the desert’s raw edge. The scree-littered base reminds you to tread carefully, while the short rappel leaves room for a smooth retreat—provided you double-check your setup and watch for shifting rock. Abandon All Hope Ye Who Enters Here is a climb that commands respect—a nod to climbers who seek the challenge beneath the sunburnt silhouette of California’s high desert.

Climber Safety

Beware of exfoliating and loose rock within the chimney—careful hand and foot placements are critical. The approach traverses uneven terrain with occasional loose scree; ensure stable footing and watch for rattlesnakes during warmer months.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the intense midday heat on the exposed rock face.

Bring plenty of water and apply sunscreen—shade is minimal along the approach and climb.

Inspect all holds carefully; loose rock is common—move deliberately.

Use rattlesnake awareness during approach, especially in warmer months.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 grade feels borderline stiff due to the route’s technical chimney moves and loose rock conditions. While the physical difficulty may align with other local 5.9s, the added mental challenge of trusting gear placements on fragile stone increases the overall commitment. Compared with smoother Joshua Tree classics, this climb demands a sharper eye and steady nerves.

Gear Requirements

A rack up to #6 Camalot is essential to protect the chimney’s wide, fragile crack system. Given the exfoliating rock, focus on placements that feel secure and avoid any questionable flakes.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Abandon All Hope Ye Who Enters Here and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

wide crack
chimney
exfoliating rock
desert
trad
single pitch