HomeClimbingA Way To The Top

A Way To The Top: Classic Trad Route on Pulpit Rock

Estes Park, Colorado United States
trad climbing
multi-pitch
chimney
cave section
pulpit rock
granite
Colorado climbing
slab
dihedral
Length: 450 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
A Way To The Top
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"This three-pitch trad climb along the right side of Pulpit Rock delivers a mix of smooth faces, dihedrals, and a cavernous chimney pitch with rewarding exposure. A must-try for climbers ready for technical moves balanced by solid protection in a stunning Colorado setting."

A Way To The Top: Classic Trad Route on Pulpit Rock

Rising steadily from the rugged contours of Cow Creek Canyon, the climb known as A Way To The Top offers an authentic Colorado trad experience perched on the right flank of the Pulpit Rock Massif. This three-pitch ascent demands both strategy and presence, threading through natural features that feel alive with geological character and challenge. From the base, you engage with the rock’s honesty—smooth faces, recessed shelves, and cracks that invite hand jams and delicate footwork. The first pitch begins below a polished right-side face, where a short crack dihedral teases you upward before guiding you leftward past a dark fissure and a grassy groove, an unexpected patch of green on this steep face. You then connect to a left-angling dihedral, negotiating a manageable crux to reach a large belay ledge nestled deep in a cavernous hollow under a looming chimney. Skillful trad climbers will appreciate the secure natural thread anchor here, primed for a well-organized belay.

The second pitch ventures inward, carrying you through a cave-like cavity where slings and a carefully placed #1 Camalot become critical for progression. This section evokes the experience of Honeymoon Chimney on The Priest, inviting a nimble ascent through cramped slots or, if flexibility isn't on your side, a more tactical bypass around a chockstone. Either choice leads to skirting 3rd class terrain to a tree belay, balancing rope drag concerns with protection efficiency.

Pitch three presents multiple route options, with the favored path climbing a challenging slab left of a lone tree. This stretch can turn notably technical, hinting at a 5.11 crux for those ignoring the tree, with minimal protection using a #0.1 Camalot. Embracing the tree option simplifies the climbing to about 5.8 with a T1 rating, rewarding route-finding skills and bold movement. Above this, easier terrain leads up to the summit, where the effort unfolds into wide views over the Estes Park Valley, grounding climbers with the sheer beauty of the Colorado high country.

Descent requires care, navigating a brushy, steep gully marked by a prominent, fallen tree. From the saddle, stay west and then north around the spire before transitioning to straightforward hiking terrain that guides you east back to your packs at McGraw Ranch trailhead. Staying hydrated and pacing your effort on this 450-foot climb is key; the clarity of the route and quality of protection offer confidence but also reward steady, thoughtful progress. Whether you’re a trad climber seeking moderate but engaging multi-pitch climbs or just stepping into Colorado’s granite offerings, A Way To The Top combines character, challenge, and natural beauty in equal measure.

Climber Safety

Watch for rope drag inside the cave pitch and avoid extended falls around the chockstone and slab sections. The brushy gully descent features loose footing near a large dead tree; proceed carefully and consider using hiking poles if needed.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length450 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon sun and keep the rock cool.

Use long slings to reduce rope drag in the cave pitch.

The tree belay on pitch two helps manage rope tension; consider short belays if bypassing the chockstone.

Descend cautiously via the brushy gully; watch footing around the dead tree and follow the saddle route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- rating feels approachable for seasoned trad climbers but includes a subtle low crux on the first pitch that keeps you engaged. Pitch three offers a tough alternative near 5.11 if you bypass the tree, which stiffens the climb considerably. Overall, the grading aligns well with nearby Southern Rockies climbs with moderate difficulty and technical moves.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack up to a #3.5 Camalot and a 60m rope. Natural thread anchors and single sling placements are key for secure belays, especially on the first pitch. A long sling and a #1 Camalot prove essential inside the cave section.

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Tags

trad climbing
multi-pitch
chimney
cave section
pulpit rock
granite
Colorado climbing
slab
dihedral