"A Message from Dick offers a compact two-pitch climb blending slab finesse with crack climbing in the scenic Big Thompson Canyon. Perfect for climbers sharpening trad skills or looking for an accessible Colorado outing, this route delivers secure placements, manageable length, and a straightforward descent."
A Message from Dick unfolds on the Beer Slabs within Colorado’s Big Thompson Canyon, offering a concise but rewarding climb that stands out for its approachable length and mixed trad-sport character. Situated just a mile west of the Beige Siphon Tube’s parking spot, this route greets you after a brief walk, ascending a steep gully that introduces you to the raw textures of the Beer Slab’s angled face. The first pitch requires careful footwork on thin slabs, weaving past a single bolt and relying predominantly on small nuts to keep you secure. The rock here demands a steady rhythm and precision as you navigate the subtle breaks that punctuate the slab. Resting on a substantial ledge signals the end of the initial stretch and prepares you for the second pitch.
The second pitch lightens the physical strain, climbing an angled crack that leans gently, graded 5.5, which invites a more relaxed pace as you slot gear up to two inches before reaching the chains. The crack offers ample placements, rewarding those with a trad rack familiar with careful pro selection. Your descent is straightforward: two rappels totaling 130 feet deliver you cleanly back to the base, allowing time to reflect on the climb or prepare for what’s next.
The setting of Big Thompson Canyon adds dimension to the experience. The approach trail is short but intense—90 feet west from the road, then 160 feet of uphill hiking—positioning climbers quickly in front of the wall. The canyon’s open exposure means sun can be strong in midday, though morning and late afternoon bring pleasant shading from the surrounding ridge faces. Weather here can shift rapidly, so staying alert to conditions is advised.
Essential gear includes a rack suited for small nuts, since the first pitch has limited fixed protection, plus a set of cams reaching up to two inches for the crack above. The single bolt on pitch one helps with security but does not replace the need for solid trad placements. The rock quality is typical of the Beer Slabs—sound but demanding attention to where you place your feet and hands, especially on thinner slab sections.
For anyone seeking a short climbing experience combining slab technique with straightforward crack climbing, A Message from Dick hits the mark without requiring extra-long approaches or complex descend routes. Whether you’re rounding out a day in the Big Thompson or looking for a reliable moderate climb on mixed gear, this route balances challenge and accessibility with a practical flow through daylight hours.
Prepare with sturdy footwear for slab maneuvering, bring water to stay hydrated since shade can be intermittent, and aim for cooler parts of the day to avoid the canyon heat. The climb is suited to those comfortable placing trad gear and eager to practice slab climbing skills in a calm but engaging setting. Safety comes down to respectful patience with the rock’s personality and solid anchor management on rappel. This route is a smart option for climbers wanting a clear, manageable outing framed by the dynamic landscape of Colorado’s Estes Park Valley.
The slab sections call for precise footwork; a slip here can be costly. Protection is sparse on pitch one except for a lone bolt, so ensure solid nut placements. The rappel requires care to avoid rope drag and confirm the anchors before descending.
Approach starts from a paved parking lot one mile west of Beige Siphon Tube; hike 90 feet west across the road, then ascend 160 feet up a steep gully to the base.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber suitable for slab mastery to maintain footing on thin sections.
Morning or late afternoon climbs provide cooler temperatures and better shading on the wall.
Double-check your rappel gear setup and be prepared for a full 130-foot two-belay descent.
Small nuts and cams to 2 inches are vital for this climb, as pitch one depends on nut placements with a single bolt, while pitch two’s leaning crack demands camming devices up to two inches. Two chain anchors allow a clean 130-foot rappel.
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