"A Fistful of Pesos offers climbers a crisp 70-foot ascent combining crack jams with face holds, delivering a short, technical crux amid plentiful jugs. Positioned in El Potrero Chico’s legendary limestone walls, it’s a must-try for sport climbers craving a tactical challenge in a spectacular desert setting."
A Fistful of Pesos climbs a striking vertical crack line edged with solid face holds, inviting climbers to engage both hands and feet on a route that balances flow with challenge. Situated in the vibrant climbing haven of El Potrero Chico, this 70-foot single-pitch sport climb carves a clear path up clean stone, where plenty of generous jugs soften the effort amid a noticeably technical, short crux that demands precise footwork and steady commitment. Though rooted in its history as a traditional crack climb, the route’s modern bolt protection adds confidence without losing the authentic crack-climbing vibe that draws climbers eager for both tactical climbing and a thrilling movement puzzle.
From the base, the rock is sun-warmed and textured, offering tactile feedback that complements the visual cues of the crack’s shifting rhythm. As you move upward, the crack challenges with its shifting width, pushing you to transition smoothly from secure jams to delicate face holds just to the right. The crux, though brief, announces itself with a thinner sequence that tests patience and balance, requiring a blend of strength and finesse before easing into the final jug holds. Finishing at a reliable belay shared with the steeper Milk Cow Blues, this climb provides a satisfying send while positioning climbers to explore the surrounding network of routes.
El Potrero Chico is known for its soaring limestone walls that rise dramatically against the northern Mexican sky, creating an arena where climbers can test themselves in a high-desert environment marked by clear air and expansive views. The approach is straightforward, allowing climbers to arrive with energy in reserve for the climb and the exploration beyond. Consider tackling this route in the cooler months when the sun still bathes the wall but temperatures remain manageable, offering the perfect balance between warmth and comfort.
Gear-wise, the bolted protection simplifies safety, but bringing a selection of cams can be useful if you wish to explore adjacent cracks that echo the line’s original traditional roots. The rock’s texture rewards precise foot placements, so climb in shoes that balance sensitivity and support. Hydration is crucial in the arid climate; bring enough water to stay refreshed throughout your session without carrying excess weight.
Whether you're marking your progress through the accessible 5.9 sport climbs or seeking a new challenge amid El Potrero Chico’s steep limestone faces, A Fistful of Pesos provides a route that blends technical crack work with enjoyable, juggy climbing. It’s ideal for climbers looking to sharpen their crack skills while enjoying a highly accessible, well-protected single pitch that offers a glimpse into the area’s rich climbing heritage.
Though bolted, the approach demands attention as the desert terrain can be loose and sun-exposed. Be mindful of rock quality near the crack edges, as occasional crumbly patches may require tested placements and deliberate movement, especially during the thin crux.
Aim to climb during fall to spring for cooler temperatures and better grip.
Wear shoes with sensitive rubber to navigate the thin crux confidently.
Bring 2 quickdraws to clip all bolts comfortably on this single pitch.
Hydrate well before starting—the approach and climb happen in a dry, sunny environment.
Originally established as a trad crack line, A Fistful of Pesos is now fully bolted, offering solid sport protection. Still, the crack character invites optional cams if exploring nearby cracks or for added security on the approach.
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