"9 to 5 is a straightforward trad climb on Clock Rock’s east face, weaving an upward diagonal ramp with thin protection and modest technical moves. Ideal for climbers craving moderate mileage and willing to manage sparse gear on a 5.9 PG13 grade."
Set against the rugged backdrop of the Eastern Hills near Benton Crags, the 9 to 5 route on Clock Rock invites climbers seeking a straightforward yet thoughtfully challenging trad experience. This single-pitch climb, measuring roughly 80 feet, ascends an upward-slanting left diagonal ramp that guides you toward a short headwall. The rock here demands attention—while the overall movement feels moderate, protection is slender and requires careful placement. Early on, the climb tests your patience as you navigate a lip and reach a dominant plate, or chickenhead, a natural hold that gives momentary confidence before the next push.
As you progress, a thin horizontal crack emerges, the lone reliable gear spot where a pin can be placed to secure your line. Protection elsewhere is scattered and sparse, making this climb suited for those comfortable with managing limited pro. Because of the rock’s variable quality—edged with some loose flakes and less solid sections—approach it as an opportunity to build mileage on a manageable 5.9 PG13 route, understanding it leans toward a gritty style rather than polished perfection.
Clock Rock perches within a serene and remote stretch of Sierra Eastside wilderness, offering clear skies and views punctuated by the surrounding arid hills. The approach is relatively gentle for the region, winding through trail sections that meander past low-growing brush and offering a chance to settle your mind before the technical demands begin. Given the sun exposure on this east-facing wall, mornings or late afternoons present ideal climbing windows to avoid the harshest heat of the day.
Preparing your rack with a focus on small, thin gear is critical here. A handful of micro cams and thin nuts will give you the best protection options for the tricky placements on the ramp and the horizontal crack. The bolted anchor, shared with the adjacent route 'Here's To The Good Stuff,' provides a secure top-out and belay spot, ensuring a safe and tidy finish.
While 9 to 5 may not be a destination classic carved from flawless granite, it offers an honest climb with modest technical demands that will sharpen your trad instincts and gear confidence. Its location in the eastern Sierra foothills makes it accessible for a quick push into trad climbing mileage, offering an early taste of what the broader area has to offer—raw, engaging terrain where preparation and respect for the rock quality go hand in hand.
Protection is sparse and generally thin, so double-check all placements and watch for any loose flakes near the headwall and lip sections. The chickenhead requires secure footing as it leads to less solid rock, and the approach can be hot in midday sun—plan your timing carefully.
Start early or late to avoid direct sun on the east-facing wall.
Prepare for sparse protection—gear placements are mostly thin and requires careful judgment.
Watch for loose rock on the lip and around the chickenhead feature.
Use shared bolted anchors; ensure your anchor setup is solid before cleaning.
Bring a small rack focusing on thin gear, including micro cams and small nuts. One fixed pin protects the horizontal crack, with a bolted anchor shared with the adjacent route.
Upload your photos of 9 to 5 and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.