8 at Staircase in Mont-King, Val-David

Val-David, Canada
trad
slab
exposed
short pitch
Laurentians
mechanical protection
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
8
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"“8” at Staircase delivers a compact but crisp trad line that starts easy and gains in challenge with a slabby, sparsely protected finish. Perfect for leaders wanting to sharpen pro placement skills in an intimate mountain setting."

8 at Staircase in Mont-King, Val-David

Starting off with straightforward moves, the climb known simply as “8” in the Staircase area at Mont-King invites climbers into a solid trad experience within the rolling hills of Quebec’s Laurentians. The initial section is well-protected with secure placements offered by a mix of mechanical camming devices and tricams, allowing you to settle into the rhythm of the climb with confidence. The rock is inviting, with clean edges and subtle features that encourage steady progress.

As you transition into the final third, the character of the route shifts sharply. The slabby rock here demands heightened focus and smooth footwork as protection becomes sparse, spaced out enough to test your comfort on exposed terrain. This stretch challenges your trust in gear placements and your ability to read the rock, rewarding those who come prepared both mentally and physically.

Clocking in at approximately 30 feet, “8” is a single-pitch climb that punches above its length with varied moves that merit attention. The route’s PG13 rating hints at a moderate risk factor—its protection is sound in the beginning but requires vigilance near the top. Mechanical nuts, small SLCDs, and tricams are the recommended gear, underscoring the need for precise pro placement skills.

Located just outside Val-David, this climb offers more than just physical challenge; it connects you with the wild Laurentians where quiet forests press close to the rock walls and the fresh air carries the scent of pine and earth, grounding your climb in a natural setting that feels both alive and patient. The mountainous backdrop stretches beyond, providing not just views but a reminder of the history of rock and effort that defines this outdoor pursuit.

Approaching the route is a simple affair, with a short trail from the parking area through well-marked forest paths. The trail surface is stable and the elevation gain gentle, preparing your muscles without wearing them down before the climb.

To succeed here, bring strong trad leading skills and be ready to place gear confidently under varying degrees of exposure. Early morning climbs are ideal to avoid heat on the slabby upper section. Always check weather conditions to ensure dry rock and avoid slippery surfaces. Hydration and proper footwear with solid edging capability will support your footwork on the slab.

Whether you’re a developing leader building trad confidence or an experienced climber seeking a quick yet worthy challenge, “8” offers a clear sequence stressing technical ability and mental resilience. Respect its nuances and leave space for the rock’s voice as it dares you upward along its uneven, ever-changing face.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the last third of the route where protection points are far apart and the slab surface can be slick or crumbly when wet. Leading here requires calm decision-making and reliable gear placement skills.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Footwork finesse is key on the slabby upper section where protection gets sparse.

Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and firmer rock on the slab.

Bring a small trad rack focused on mechanical cams and tricams; small gear fits best.

Check weather beforehand—wet rock makes the slab dangerous and the route less secure.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.5 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.5 PG13 rating is moderate but leans toward a stiff interpretation given the exposure on the slabby finish. The protection spacing adds a psychological crux, demanding solid trad proficiency. Compared to nearby Mont-King lines, this climb has a friendlier start but asks for confidence on slabs that can feel airy if you’re short on experience.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack of mechanical nuts, small SLCDs, and tricams to cover the well-protected start and the more spaced-out slab section near the top. Placement precision is critical in the upper third where gear opportunities thin out.

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Tags

trad
slab
exposed
short pitch
Laurentians
mechanical protection