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5.9: The Most Dangerous Grade on Solar Shot

Whitehorse, Canada
sport climbing
single pitch
northern exposure
remote access
bolt protected
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
5.9: The Most Dangerous Grade
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A sharply etched single-pitch sport climb on Grey Mountain, this 5.9 route challenges climbers with exposed moves on crisp northern granite. Limited but reliable protection demands focus, making it a thrilling test for those seeking authentic Yukon adventure."

5.9: The Most Dangerous Grade on Solar Shot

Perched on the rugged face of Grey Mountain, the route known only as '5.9: The Most Dangerous Grade' offers climbers a sharp taste of what the Yukon Territory’s granite can demand. This short, intense single-pitch sport climb sits just to the right of the mysterious 'Unknown 2,' carving its own distinct challenge into the rock. From the moment you step onto this wall, the steep texture and weathered surface command respect, a reminder that every hold counts and the protection is limited but secure. Bolts guide your ascent, spaced carefully to balance risk and reward; the anchor above waits with rap rings ready for your retreat.

The mountain’s northern exposure means climbers often ascend in cool, steady shadow, especially during the late morning to afternoon hours. The crisp northern air can tighten your grip and sharpen focus, but cold temperatures require purposeful planning. With Grey Mountain’s imposing presence pushing its stony arms into the wide northern sky, climbers are treated not only to a physical test but to sweeping views that stretch toward dense boreal forests far below and the distant peaks carved from ancient stone.

Although the route’s rating at 5.9 suggests a moderate technical challenge, the road here demands attention. The bolts provide sound security but demand each move be confident, especially as the rock remains somewhat raw and unforgiving, with fewer rest spots to catch breath. The grade feels committed, with a crux that will push steady climbers to bring their best footwork and concentration. This is a climb where knowing your limits and respecting the grade’s reputation are just as critical as the physical effort.

Access to Solar Shot’s Grey Mountain sector is a venture in itself. A rugged approach trails through whispering conifers and patches of moss-laden stone, leading you roughly 30 minutes from the parking area. The path is steady but uneven, so sturdy footwear and careful, measured steps will save both legs and patience. GPS coordinates place you at latitude 60.67084, longitude -134.90895, marking the gateway to one of the north’s hidden gems.

Preparation is key here. Climbers must ensure all gear—especially quickdraws—is in excellent condition, and hydration is critical, since the remote setting means no quick refill. Early summer through early fall offers the most reliable weather window: dry stone, manageable temperatures, and reduced insect activity. While the grade warns of danger, proper planning transforms this route into a pure expression of focused movement and mountain precision.

Follow the bolts with intent but caution; trust your eyes and hands as the rock dares you upward. Above, the secure anchor system eases descent, with rap rings ready to guide you safely back to earth. Though brief, this line leaves an impression: a sharp climb with a tough rating and a setting that embraces all who step up—ready or not.

Climber Safety

The route’s bolts are solid but spaced to encourage precise movement—avoid fall attempts where possible. Cold temperatures can reduce grip; prepare accordingly. The rocky descent relies on the anchor’s rap rings, so double-check your rappel setup before committing to descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is uneven; wear sturdy boots and bring trekking poles if needed.

Early summer through early fall presents the best weather window for dryness and stable temps.

Hydrate well before the climb; no water sources are nearby.

The northern face stays cool—dress in layers to adjust for variable temperatures.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, this route carries a reputation a notch above standard grades due to its exposure and limited protection. The moves feel earnest rather than soft, with a distinct crux that demands precise footwork and steady nerves. Compared to other climbs in the Yukon, it aligns with moderate challenges but rewards climbers who respect its straightforward yet committing nature.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with bolts to the top and a solid anchor featuring rap rings. You'll want a full set of quickdraws, and checking your draws for wear is crucial given the route’s remote character.

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Tags

sport climbing
single pitch
northern exposure
remote access
bolt protected