HomeClimbing5.7 In Slippers

5.7 In Slippers: A Compact Trad Challenge on McQuirks Mountain

McQuirks Mountain, Canada
trad climbing
crack climbing
single pitch
beginner trad
New Brunswick
tree anchor
moderate exposure
Length: 110 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
5.7 In Slippers
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"5.7 In Slippers on McQuirks Mountain presents a concise trad route blending moderate crack climbing with a distinct crux requiring precise protection. Perfect for climbers sharpening their skills in a peaceful New Brunswick setting."

5.7 In Slippers: A Compact Trad Challenge on McQuirks Mountain

Perched on the rugged face of McQuirks Mountain within the Green Zone, 5.7 In Slippers offers a brief but engaging trad climb that tests your steadiness and gear skills alike. At just over 100 feet, this single-pitch route carves a line through steely cracks and jagged holds, demanding more than just brawn—it requires sharp attention to protection and movement in equal measure.

The climb begins with an inviting approach: moderate crack systems offer familiar hand jams that ease you upward, warming your body and your confidence. But don't let the easy start fool you. Midway through, a subtle crux presents itself in a compact section where holds tighten and gear placements become less forgiving. This section nudges you to focus intently—choose each move deliberately, and carefully assess your protection before committing. The risk lies not in immense technical difficulty but in the precision and patience the route demands.

Protection is straightforward but needs care. Racking a single set of cams to 3 inches prepares you well for the placements here, though be ready to navigate small seams and thin edges that push you to feel the rock's textures and fit your gear just right. The anchors are simple—a solid tree at the top provides a natural belay spot, emphasizing the climb’s backyard appeal and straightforward descent.

Surrounding the route, the Green Zone offers a quiet wilderness atmosphere with trails leading through dense forest patches and open ridges. The ascent to McQuirks Mountain is accessible but unassuming, making this climb an ideal choice for a half-day adventure where you can enjoy a mix of physical challenge and natural quietude.

Timing your climb early in the day can be advantageous: the west-facing wall catches the morning sun, warming up cool rock but retreating into shade by mid-afternoon. The best seasons tend to be late spring through early fall when the weather is stable, and the woodlands around the base buzz softly with insects and bird calls.

While the route’s grade is friendly at 5.6 PG13, careful preparation is key. Protecting the crux moves calls for precise placements, and the tricky section is unforgiving to rushed attempts. Pack enough water, wear shoes with strong edging capability, and double-check your anchor setup for a smooth, satisfying experience.

Whether you’re brushing up on crack techniques or seeking a straightforward climb with a subtle challenge, 5.7 In Slippers wraps practicality and adventure into a compact, memorable package. It’s a spot to refine your trad skills without the fuss of long approaches or complex logistics, all set in the quiet majesty of New Brunswick’s wild lands.

Climber Safety

Protection around the crux requires precise placements in narrow cracks; rushing can lead to sparse gear on the exposed moves. The tree anchor is reliable but inspecting it before use is recommended. Watch for loose rock and avoid climbing after heavy rain to reduce slipping hazards.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length110 feet

Local Tips

Aim for an early morning start to enjoy sun on the wall while the base stays cool.

Wearing sticky climbing shoes with good edging will help negotiate the tighter holds near the crux.

Double-check your protection placements especially around the tricky crux zone to maintain safety.

Carry enough hydration; the approach offers some forest cover but limited water sources.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6 PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.6 PG13, this route feels approachable but not to be underestimated. The crux adds a subtle bump in technical and mental difficulty that pushes the grade just beyond its number. While the initial cracks feel comfortable, the protection around the crux demands more attention, making it a solid challenge for intermediate trad climbers. Compared to other local routes, it leans towards the safer side but requires focus during the key section.

Gear Requirements

Single rack to 3-inch cams is sufficient for gear placements. Protecting the crux requires careful, precise placements due to slimmer cracks and edges. Tree anchor tops the climb for a solid belay and rappel.

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Tags

trad climbing
crack climbing
single pitch
beginner trad
New Brunswick
tree anchor
moderate exposure