5.9, Trad
Yosemite Valley
California ,United States
"A great introduction to traditional Yosemite climbing, the 5.6 Chimney Above Grant’s combines steady crack and chimney moves with accessible protection and rewarding exposure. Perfect for climbers looking to build technique while absorbing the dramatic high-country atmosphere."
Rising prominently on the Swan Slab, the 5.6 Chimney Above Grant's offers an inviting blend of moderate crack climbing and chimney moves that reward steady technique with generous exposure to Yosemite’s classic granite. This two-pitch trad route weaves upward from the reassuring holds of Grant's Crack or Oak Tree Flake, leading to a small, solitary belay tree—a natural resting spot that sets the tone for what’s next. The second pitch features a chimney section rated between 5.6 and 5.7 depending on your exact line choice, allowing for a laid-back ascent framed by solid granite that feels both secure and engaging. The angle eases as you step up and slightly right, guiding you toward a large ledge that serves as a comfortable belay if you’re equipped with a 70m rope.
The approach to this climb drops you into the less crowded northern reaches of Yosemite Valley, where the air carries a blend of pine and warm stone. The Granite walls here catch the sunlight in shifting patches throughout the day, casting sharp shadows that highlight every flake and crack. As you ascend, you'll hear the faint hum of waterfalls in the distance, their currents daring you onward.
Protection is straightforward with a standard rack—doubles to number 2 cams are useful, with a single number 3 thrown in for extra coverage. A weathered bolt at the top of the chimney offers a fixed anchor, though it bears the mark of years under the elements. For climbers with a 60m rope, expect to reach a slightly awkward belay setup among grass-tufted dirt mounds and large flakes, requiring careful attention to gear placement and stance stability.
This route balances enthusiasm for technical climbing with practicality: it’s a reliable choice for climbers looking to refine crack skills without committing to overly demanding ratings. The granite here tests your footwork and body positioning, while the chimney invites a slowed, thoughtful rhythm. Timing your climb for the morning or late afternoon helps avoid the midday heat, adding comfort to the adventure.
Practicality extends to the descent as well. Opportunities to rappel or downclimb are available, but keeping an eye on rope length and anchor security is crucial for a smooth return. The surrounding Yosemite falls area offers plenty of options to extend the day with other classic routes or scenic hikes, making this a versatile outing that suits a wide range of outdoor enthusiasts.
The belay at the top of pitch two demands caution as it sits on loose soil and grass-tufted mounds—ensure solid anchor placements and steady footing to avoid slips. Additionally, the ageing bolt atop the chimney should be inspected carefully before use.
Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and fewer crowds.
Use a 70m rope to access the large ledge belay safely on pitch two.
Carefully assess the awkward belay area on dirt mounds for secure stance and gear placement.
Watch for loose dirt and grass near the top chimney section to avoid slipping.
A standard rack with doubles up to #2 cams and a single #3 cam is recommended. The route features an old, rusted bolt atop the chimney; bring a 60-70m rope to reach comfortable belay stances or the large ledge below Swan Slab Gully’s third pitch.
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