"45 and French delivers a sharp 5.10c test outside the gully at Devil’s Glen, where a punchy roof crux opens into more relaxed climbing above. This single-pitch route offers calm forest surroundings and solid bolted protection, ideal for technical climbers seeking focused performance in Ontario’s quiet limestone."
On the rugged edges of Ontario’s Devil’s Glen, just beyond the main paths of Outside the Gully, the 45 and French route invites climbers into a sharp encounter with limestone held tight by time and tension. This single-pitch sport climb is a measured dance of technique and strength, marked most memorably by a compact roof that demands a focused pull to overcome its crux. The rock’s texture is cool beneath your fingertips, offering reliable holds that challenge but don’t overwhelm.
Starting from well-secured bolts and working through the roof, climbers experience a surge of effort followed by a relief as the angle eases and the terrain opens toward the anchors. This shift feels like the rock itself is allowing passage, a payoff after committing energy to that pivotal move. The position just outside the main gully means the climb is often quiet, with forest scents carried on the wind and the distant rustle of trees offering a calming backdrop.
Though the route is relatively short by sport climbing standards, its 5.10c rating signals a nuanced challenge—engaging for those comfortable with technical moves but still accessible enough to reward steady precision. Protection is straightforward with reliable bolts, removing concerns about loose placements, and letting climbers focus on body positioning and footwork. The approach to the climb is simple, walking through mixed terrain with hints of undergrowth and limestone outcrops that prepare your senses for the rock ahead.
For those planning a trip here, the best conditions arrive in late spring through fall, when the rock is dry and the air crisp, allowing the delicate tension of the crux to be tackled without slipping. Footwear that balances grip and sensitivity will make all the difference, especially along the roof’s ledge. Hydration and pacing matter since the climb demands a sharp effort at the start, followed by a calm but confident finish.
Overall, 45 and French stands as a solid pick for sport climbers exploring Ontario’s quieter stone, blending a touch of technical athleticism with the quiet company of the forested gully. It offers a moment of connection with the rock that’s tactile and rewarding, a brief but vivid chapter in the broader story of climbing at Devil’s Glen.
The roof crux requires strong commitment—avoid hesitation to reduce fall risk. Limestone can feel slick if damp, so never climb immediately after rain or heavy dew. Pay attention to small loose rocks at the approach and maintain three points of contact when transitioning around the base.
Approach is short and easy but watch for loose stones near the base.
Late spring to early fall offers the driest rock for optimal grip.
Bring shoes with sticky rubber and good sensitivity for the roof crux.
Avoid climbing right after rain to prevent slick holds on the limestone.
The climb relies on fixed bolts and anchors, requiring no additional gear beyond standard sport climbing equipment. Clipping efficiently through the roof sequence is key to maintaining momentum.
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