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3rd Class It: A Steep Desert Ascent at Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms, California United States
hand crack
finger crack
black patina
short pitch
desert trad
Length: 35 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
3rd Class It
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Discover 3rd Class It, a sharp and focused trad climb tucked next to the main south face in Joshua Tree National Park. This steep black patina route offers a brief but engaging challenge, perfect for those wanting a quick desert trad experience rich in technical cracks and precise moves."

3rd Class It: A Steep Desert Ascent at Joshua Tree

Tucked just left of Joshua Tree's main south face routes, 3rd Class It offers a compact but intense climb that invites those with a taste for desert trad moves to test their skills on steep black patina. From the desert floor, this route begins with a bouldery approach, requiring a committed pull into a smooth, varnished bowl that demands focus and precision. The climb quickly leads you under a prominent hand-sized crack, complemented by a smaller finger crack overlapping to its left. These cracks are the heart of the route, challenging your ability to read the rock and place protection confidently, as some loose crystal fragments lurk in the lower hand crack. The move out of these cracks is the true crux—the final hurdle before topping out.

Though brief at 35 feet and consisting of just one pitch, 3rd Class It rewards a direct style and sharp technique, offering a moment of solo excitement for those who seek it. Protection is fundamental here; the route requires a rack including nuts and a selection of cams ranging from finger to hand size to secure tricky placements along the steep face. Your grip will be tested against the desert’s smooth patina, which can be unforgiving, so steady footwork and precise body positioning come into play.

Access is straightforward, starting from Indian Cove Campground inside Joshua Tree National Park. The approach is short—a few minutes from established campsites—making it an excellent pick for climbers looking for a quick blast of desert trad in a stunning and rugged landscape. This area is defined by its stark beauty: the desert sun casts harsh shadows over blackened rock, and the surrounding boulders hum quietly under the wind’s persistent push.

As one of Joshua Tree’s less-traveled routes, 3rd Class It encourages a focused, self-reliant mindset. Pay particular attention to the loose crystals in the hand crack—testing every hold before committing is essential to stay safe—and be ready for a committing exit move that demands confidence and strength. The route’s short length masks its intensity, making it a satisfying challenge for climbers who want a taste of desert trad without the commitment of longer climbs.

Timing your ascent for early morning or late afternoon helps avoid the full brunt of the sun, as the steep slab faces absorb the heat quickly. Bring layered clothing to adjust to temperature swings common in the high desert and plenty of water to stay hydrated amid the dry air.

3rd Class It is a precise desert offering: quick to approach but demanding in execution. Whether you’re ticking it solo or with a partner, this short climb will sharpen your crack skills and deepen your appreciation for Joshua Tree’s unique blend of stark landscape and subtle rock character.

Climber Safety

Loose crystal fragments near the base of the hand crack demand cautious placements and tested holds. The committing pull into the varnished bowl requires confidence to avoid slips. Stable footwork on the steep slab is crucial.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Approach from Indian Cove Campground; it's a short walk from the campsites.

Check hand crack holds carefully for loose crystals before trusting moves.

Start early or late in the day to avoid the desert sun baking the rock.

Bring plenty of water and wear layers due to rapid temperature changes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, this climb presents a straightforward but focused challenge. The grade feels true, with the main difficulty centering on the crux at the exit and the need for precise crack technique. Compared to other Joshua Tree climbs, it leans toward the shorter, more technical side rather than sustained difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Carry a standard trad rack emphasizing nuts and cams sized from fingers to hands. Protection placements require care, especially around loose crystal chunks in the hand crack area.

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Tags

hand crack
finger crack
black patina
short pitch
desert trad