"200 Motels presents a gripping single-pitch trad route on Rattlesnake Buttress, pairing a technical boulder start with sustained crack climbing. With solid protection options and a straightforward descent, it’s a practical yet engaging climb perfect for honing trad skills in Joshua Tree’s raw desert landscape."
200 Motels offers a focused and rewarding climb for trad enthusiasts looking to immerse themselves in the distinctive Joshua Tree experience. Situated just to the right of Taken for Granite, this route starts with a challenging 5.8 boulder problem beneath a modest roof, immediately engaging climbers with its technical demands. The initial move leads into a wide slot, where a finger crack arcs along the right side, guiding you upward for around 30 feet until you reach the top of a prominent block. From there, the climb continues straight ahead, ascending through a sustained finger and hand crack that tests precision and patience.
The rock here tells its own story—solid, textured granite that offers reliable placements, but requires careful attention to subtle variations in crack width. Protection ranges from thin cams to 2.5-inch pieces, challenging climbers to think strategically about gear. Unlike more heavily trafficked routes in Joshua Tree, 200 Motels sees moderate traffic, giving you space to connect with the climb’s rhythm without distraction.
Setting foot here feels like stepping into a quiet corner of the park where the desert air presses cool and dry against your skin. The approach leads across gently sloping terrain dotted with twisted junipers and coarse sand, under an open sky that can quickly shift its mood from sun-drenched warmth to sharp, evening chill. Although the climb itself is a single pitch of 110 feet, its combination of a technical start and solid crack climbing creates an experience that punches above its weight.
Descending calls for a two-rope rappel from slings anchored at the top, or an easy downclimb along a fifth-class gully behind the face. This flexibility ensures a smooth end to the ascent and time to savor the views extending toward Indian Cove, where jagged formations beckon beyond.
For those preparing to climb 200 Motels, sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber and a full rack geared toward small to medium pro are essential. Timing your climb in the cooler months yields the best conditions; summer heat can sap energy and make the granite uncomfortably warm. Hydration is critical, as shade is limited on this route and the surrounding buttress.
Whether adding a new tick to your list or seeking a dependable crack to sharpen your skills, 200 Motels provides a direct, real, and wholly satisfying trad climb that captures the spirit of Joshua Tree’s rugged beauty without complication.
Watch for loose small blocks near the base and ensure firm placements during the initial boulder moves. The rappel descent uses fixed slings—always check their condition and your own backup when lowering.
Begin early to avoid midday heat—shade is minimal on the route.
Check anchors at the top; slings are reliable but inspect before rappelling.
Hydrate well; the desert air is dry and demands extra water.
Wear shoes with good edging and smearing capabilities for the boulder start.
Bring a full trad rack emphasizing thin cams to 2.5-inch sizes to protect the crack well. Sticky shoes are recommended for the initial boulder problem below the roof.
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