"16 Plaquettes delivers a focused trad climb that melds gear placements with bolted security along a sharp Laurentian arete. Ideal for climbers hungry for technical moves and confident protection on a crisp 180-foot vertical crack."
Set against the rugged backdrop of the Laurentian Mountains in Quebec, 16 Plaquettes offers an invigorating trad climbing experience that commands focus and respect. This single-pitch, 180-foot route skirts the left side of the dominant Ligne Jaune arete, inviting climbers to engage directly with a distinct vertical crack that rises above the birch trees lining the base. From the first grip, the climb challenges with sustained moves at 5.11+, rewarding precision and steady technique without relying on flashy holds.
The rock is solid, with the crack providing ample options for traditional protection, enhanced by the presence of 16 strategically placed bolts that hint at its hybrid nature. The bolted belay anchors ensure a secure top-out, but descending requires two ropes for the double-rope rappel. This terrain suits a committed climber comfortable blending gear placements with bolt clipping, balancing risk and security.
Around the base, the forest breathes with the subtle rustle of birch leaves and the crisp scent of pine, grounding climbers in the distinctive Laurentian atmosphere. The approach is straightforward but demands attention; the trail weaves through mixed forest on moderate-grade terrain that warms the body and sharpens focus before the vertical demands begin.
16 Plaquettes occupies a prime spot in the C. Ligne Jaune sector, a locale that blends accessible wilderness with routes of genuine challenge. While it favors experienced trad climbers, its well-protected nature welcomes those transitioning into higher grades. For anyone ready to push their limits in a quiet corner of Canadian climbing, this climb lays out a clear line between ambition and control, wrapped in the cool northern air and timeless presence of Laurentian granite.
While the bolted belay offers a confident anchor, the rappel requires two ropes and careful attention to rope management. The crack’s protection can be tricky in spots, so thorough gear selection and placement skill reduce risk. Watch for loose rock near the birch trees at the base and avoid climbing after heavy rains to prevent slippery holds.
Start early to avoid climbing under midday sun on the eastern aspects of the wall.
Bring a full set of cams and nuts to cover the varied crack sizes and find optimal placements.
The approach trail passes through mixed forest—footwear with good traction is recommended.
Double-check rappel setup at the bolted anchors and carry two ropes for descent.
This route demands a standard trad rack complemented by the use of 16 fixed bolts along the line. At the top, a bolted belay provides solid security. Rappelling requires two ropes to safely descend the wall.
Upload your photos of 16 Plaquettes and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.