HomeClimbing1001 Ways to Fame

1001 Ways to Fame: A Sport Climb on Quadra Island's South Peak

Quadra Island, British Columbia Canada
sport climbing
single pitch
vertical
coastal
granite
technical moves
short reach crux
Length: 79 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
1001 Ways to Fame
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"1001 Ways to Fame is a focused 79-foot sport climb on Quadra Island’s South Peak that challenges climbers with sustained vertical terrain and a subtle ground crux. This route rewards steady footwork and precise moves within a wild coastal setting."

1001 Ways to Fame: A Sport Climb on Quadra Island's South Peak

1001 Ways to Fame offers a concentrated burst of focused climbing on Quadra Island’s South Peak, part of the rugged Great Wall Complex. This one-pitch, 79-foot sport route demands steady movement and sharp attention from start to finish. The climb shares its opening two-thirds with the neighboring Dragon Eyes route, setting a rhythmic sequence of well-placed bolts that invite confident clipping and strategic breathing. From the ground, the initial moves present a subtle challenge; the crux teases especially those with shorter reach as the first lip requires a precise effort to gain purchase. Thankfully, an arrangement of "cheater stones" is thoughtfully in place, easing the transition over this initial threshold and welcoming climbers of varying statures.

The rock, a solid granite face, offers a consistent texture that rewards mindful footwork and steady hand jams. Climbers will find themselves locked in on sustained vertical terrain, where each move flows into the next without much rest. This route tests endurance in a compact form, making it ideal for climbers looking to sharpen technique or sharpen their redpoint projectile.

The setting delivers more than just physical challenge. The wall rises above a wild coastal landscape, with the salty tang of the nearby ocean carried on cool breezes that slip through towering pines and moss-covered boulders below. The air carries a crisp freshness that makes effort feel lighter, and the occasional call of distant seabirds punctuates the serene wilderness.

Access to the climb is straightforward but rewarding: a well-marked trail leads from a modest parking area through uneven forested terrain before opening onto granite faces that catch the afternoon sun. The approach is a tactile experience itself — soft needles underfoot, the crackle of dry branches, and the mingling scents of cedar and salt. Timing your ascent in late spring through early fall ensures drier rock and stable conditions, with summer afternoons bringing the most comfortable temperatures.

Climbers should prepare by bringing a standard sport climbing rack, emphasizing quickdraws and a reliable rope. The route’s nine bolts are solid, and rap rings at the anchors guarantee a smooth descent. While the climb is accessible, careful attention is advised on the initial moves where footholds may feel tenuous. Hydration is crucial, as the valley's dry spells can surprise visitors unprepared, and sturdy climbing shoes with solid edging will make the transitions over the lip feel more confident.

This route, though brief, offers a compelling mix of challenge and reward—a test of technique framed by the wild spirit of Quadra Island. Whether you’re stepping onto this wall for the first time or returning to sharpen your skill, 1001 Ways to Fame delivers a focused and fulfilling climbing experience edged with coastal beauty and practical access.

Climber Safety

Though the bolts and anchors are well maintained, cautious clipping on early bolts is advised due to limited footholds near the crux. The initial moves require precision; missing foot placements here can lead to uncomfortable falls. Approach trails can be slippery when wet, so wear sturdy shoes.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length79 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid the heat on the wall during summer afternoons.

Use climbing shoes with good edging ability to manage the initial lip crux smoothly.

Bring plenty of water; the approach and climb can feel dehydrating on warm days.

Check anchor and bolt conditions before ascent despite general good maintenance.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, this route stands as a solid but approachable test of technical footwork and endurance. The grade feels true to its difficulty, particularly for climbers who may find the low crux more challenging due to their height. Compared to other climbs in the Great Wall Complex, 1001 Ways to Fame offers a relatively straightforward but sustained experience without unexpected hard moves.

Gear Requirements

Climbers will need a full sport rack with nine quickdraws for the bolts and a rope suitable for a 79-foot single pitch. Rap rings are installed for an easy and safe rappel back to the ground.

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Tags

sport climbing
single pitch
vertical
coastal
granite
technical moves
short reach crux