Where Kathmandu Breathes: Sundarijal’s Waterfalls, Trails and the Gateway to Shivapuri
A short escape from Kathmandu where waterfalls, village trails and Himalayan lookouts meet
The first time you hear Sundarijal it isn’t the syllables that stick so much as the sound: the waterfall’s low, constant percussion undercutting the city’s distant hum. Drive out of Thamel for 30–45 minutes and the asphalt thins into a narrow road lined with pines; the air cools; the river, which the valley draws and drinks, becomes audibly alive. At the car park you’ll see day-trippers with plastic bags, serious hikers lacing boots, and a scattering of vendors selling sweet tea and roasted corn. From here Sundarijal opens like a hinge — a natural doorway to Shivapuri National Park and a starting line for treks that rise out of Kathmandu’s bowl of rooftops into rhododendron, oak and, on a clear morning, those first impossible glimpses of the Himalaya.
Trail Wisdom
Start early for sunrise views
Leave Kathmandu before dawn to reach Nagarkot or Chisapani in time for the sunrise and avoid midday clouds.
Carry cash for park fees and teahouses
Small entry fees and village vendors rarely accept cards—have small Nepali rupee notes ready.
Choose sturdy footwear
Expect stepped, rocky trails and occasional muddy patches—approach with grippy hiking shoes, not trainers.
Respect water sources
Stick to trails and avoid bathing or washing gear at springs used for Kathmandu’s water supply.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Nagi Gumba monastery viewpoint reached via a shorter forest path
- •Mulkharka Bhajyang ridge for quiet mid-morning light and fewer crowds
Wildlife
Himalayan bulbul, Common muntjac (barking deer)
Conservation Note
The park protects critical watershed forest—stick to trails, use refillable water containers and hire local guides to support sustainable tourism.
Sundarijal sits at the foot of Shivapuri, an area long valued as a watershed and later protected as Shivapuri National Park to secure Kathmandu’s water supply and forest cover.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Rhododendron blooms, Birdwatching, Moderate trekking
Challenges: Occasional rain, Trail muddiness after storms
Spring brings rhododendron carpets and active birdlife; trails are pleasant though intermittent rains can make them slick.
summer
Best for: Waterfall views, Canyoning (with guide), Lush forest walks
Challenges: Monsoon downpours, Higher leech activity, Slippery paths
Monsoon swells the falls and greenens the forest but also makes canyoning technical and trails muddy—only go with experienced operators.
fall
Best for: Clear Himalayan vistas, Photography, Multi-day treks
Challenges: Higher visitor numbers, Cooler nights
Autumn is ideal for visibility and stable weather—expect clearer mountain panoramas and crisp early mornings.
winter
Best for: Solitude on trails, Crisp views, Short-day hikes
Challenges: Cold mornings, Frosty or icy sections, Shorter daylight
Winters are dry and quiet with spectacular air clarity; bring warm layers for cold starts and early finishes.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Sturdy hiking shoesEssential
Grip and ankle support for rocky, stepped and occasionally muddy trails.
Light waterproof shellEssential
Keeps you dry during sudden monsoon showers and wind on ridgelines.
Headlamp or compact torch
Essential for pre-dawn departures to catch sunrise at Nagarkot or Chisapani.
Reusable water bottle with filterEssential
Town water is treated; on trail, a filtered bottle reduces single-use plastic while ensuring safe drinking water.
Common Questions
How far is the hike from Sundarijal to Chisapani?
The trail to Chisapani from Sundarijal is roughly 8–10 km with about 800–1,000 m of elevation gain; plan 3–5 hours depending on pace and breaks.
Is a permit required to hike in Shivapuri National Park?
Yes — there is a park entry fee and occasional minor permits or guide registrations; fees are collected at park gates and sometimes vary for foreigners vs locals.
Can I do canyoning at Sundarijal year-round?
Canyoning is offered locally but conditions change with seasons; monsoon months make canyons intense and potentially dangerous—only go with licensed operators who check water levels.
Are there teahouses or places to stay along the Chisapani route?
Yes — Chisapani and surrounding villages have basic teahouses for food and overnight stays; book ahead during peak seasons.
Is it possible to do a guided day-hike from Kathmandu to Sundarijal?
Yes — many operators run half-day or full-day hikes that include pick-up from central Kathmandu and return the same day.
What wildlife might I see in the area?
Expect common Himalayan birds, occasional muntjac and the tracks of small mammals; larger predators are rare in the park’s frequented trails.
What to Pack
Hiking shoes (grippy soles for rocky steps), waterproof shell (sudden rain protection), headlamp (for pre-dawn starts), reusable water bottle with filter (reduce plastic and stay hydrated).
Did You Know
Shivapuri National Park — accessible via Sundarijal — was created in 2002 to protect the watershed that supplies a significant portion of Kathmandu’s fresh water.
Quick Travel Tips
Pack small cash for village teahouses; start early for cool conditions and clear views; hire a local guide for multi-day treks; bring a lightweight daypack for water and layers.
Local Flavor
Expect Tamang and Newari village food en route: simple dal bhat, steaming momo and local tea. Village teahouses are communal; try a plate of freshly cooked seasonal vegetables and chat with hosts about trail conditions.
Logistics Snapshot
Distance from Kathmandu: ~15–30 km drive depending on traffic. Trail type: steep, stepped forest tracks. Entry: park fee at gate. Best time: October–December and March–April for views. Facilities: basic teahouses in Chisapani; limited mobile signal.
Sustainability Note
Support local guides, avoid single-use plastics, stay on maintained trails and contribute to local teahouses and homestays to keep tourism benefits in the community.