Under the Towers: Hiking Torres del Paine’s W and Base Torres Trails
A practical, soulful guide to trekking the park’s signature viewpoints—Base Torres, the French Valley and Grey Glacier.
At first light the granite spires of Torres del Paine stand like a weatherproofing for the sky: three pale towers puncturing a vault of ever-changing clouds. You arrive on a road that has been sandblasted by wind and geologic time—two hours from Puerto Natales, through a wind-scoured steppe where guanacos browse like living ornaments. The trailhead begins with a wooden bridge over the Ascencio River; then the forest swallows you, the lenga trees muting the wind as you climb. The steps are honest: switchbacks, moraine, the odd field of glacial till. The towers wait, patient and monumental, a reward that feels earned rather than staged.
Trail Wisdom
Start early for Base Torres
Begin before sunrise from the trailhead to avoid afternoon winds and secure clear light at Mirador Base Torres; the hike is 18–19 km round trip with ~700–900 m gain.
Buy park entry in advance
Purchase your entrance passes at the official site (paseosparques.cl) and confirm refugio or campsite reservations months ahead in high season.
Layer for wind, not just cold
A windproof shell and synthetic insulating layers are more crucial than extra heavy clothing—the wind does the real work here.
Respect trail stewardship
Use designated campsites, pack out waste, and avoid shortcuts on moraine or fragile tundra to protect recovery of alpine vegetation.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Milodón Cave Natural Monument—prehistoric remains and a compact hike en route from Puerto Natales
- •Pehoé lakeshore at dusk—fewer crowds and vibrant reflections of the Cuernos del Paine
Wildlife
Guanaco, Andean condor
Conservation Note
Visitor numbers and camping are managed seasonally to protect fragile tundra; use designated campsites and carry out all waste to minimize impact.
The park was officially declared in 1959; the Paine Massif has long been used by Tehuelche hunters, later becoming a ranching and then conservation landscape.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Wildflower viewing, Fewer crowds, Wildlife sightings
Challenges: Unpredictable weather, Some services reduced, Trail mud
Spring (Sept–Nov) brings blooming cushion plants and fewer hikers, but expect volatile weather and limited services on some routes.
summer
Best for: Best weather windows, Full services/refugios, Long daylight hours
Challenges: Strong winds, Crowded trails, Advance bookings required
Summer (Dec–Feb) is peak season with the warmest temperatures and full logistics, but book months ahead and prepare for intense winds.
fall
Best for: Crisp light for photography, Changing foliage, Moderate crowds
Challenges: Cooling temps, Shorter days, Some closures
Fall (Mar–May) offers dramatic light and quieter trails—temperatures drop and some operators reduce schedules.
winter
Best for: Snow-capped towers, Quieter wilderness, Winter photography
Challenges: Cold, short days, Require crampons/guides, Limited services
Winter (Jun–Aug) is for experienced trekkers; guides often use crampons and many refugios limit services.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Waterproof, breathable shellEssential
Shields you from the frequent high winds and sleet common across the park.
Sturdy hiking boots (waterproof)Essential
Support and grip for rocky approaches, moraine, and muddy trails.
Trekking polesEssential
Stabilize descents and help conserve energy on steep switchbacks and scree.
Microspikes or crampons
Necessary in winter or after snowfalls to secure traction on icy sections.
Common Questions
Do I need to buy an entrance ticket in advance?
Yes—buy your park entry at the official site (paseosparques.cl) before arrival, especially in high season when caps are enforced.
How long is the Base Torres hike and how hard is it?
Base Torres is about 18–19 km round-trip with roughly 700–900 m of elevation gain; it’s a full-day, demanding hike but non-technical.
Can I do the W Circuit without a guide?
Yes—many hikers do the W self-guided, but you must reserve refugios or campsites ahead and be prepared for changing weather and navigation over multiple days.
When is the best time to visit for good weather?
December–February offers the most reliable weather windows and full services, though wind is still a factor.
What wildlife might I see?
Common sightings include guanacos, Andean condors, Patagonian foxes, and occasional rheas; keep distance and don’t feed animals.
Are there transportation options from Puerto Natales?
Yes—daily shuttles and guided tours operate between Puerto Natales and the park; the drive is roughly two hours.
What to Pack
Water (2–3L) — trails are long; Windproof shell — Patagonia is notoriously windy; Sturdy hiking boots — traction on moraine and wet trails; Insulating mid-layer — temperatures change quickly
Did You Know
Torres del Paine National Park was established in 1959 and covers roughly 242,242 hectares of southern Chilean Patagonia.
Quick Travel Tips
1) Buy park entry online in advance; 2) Book refugios or campsites months ahead for December–February; 3) Expect limited cell service—download maps; 4) Pack layers and wind protection rather than heavy winter clothing
Local Flavor
Puerto Natales is the local hub—sample Patagonian lamb, king crab (centolla), and calafate berry jam; local guides often share gaucho stories and regional history over a hot mate or stew.
Logistics Snapshot
Nearest base: Puerto Natales (2-hour drive). Park entry: purchase online. Best season: Dec–Feb. Typical routes: Base Torres (1-day), W Circuit (4–5 days). Book refugios/campsites months ahead.
Sustainability Note
Stick to marked trails, reserve official campsites or refugios, use refillable water containers, and follow leave-no-trace rules to protect delicate alpine flora and limit human impact.