Under the Canopy: A Wild Walk Through Tongass National Forest
An insider's field guide to walking, paddling, and flying through Alaska's temperate rainforest
The first time you step from Ketchikan's wet-boardwalk bustle into the Tongass, the air changes like a curtain being drawn. It smells of cedar and salt, cool and mineral; rain beads on the moss like distant applause. A narrow gravel trail threads between Sitka spruce trunks the size of small houses, roots slick with green, and the constant, patient music of creek and surf. Here the forest does not invite you so much as test your attention. A raven watches you from a lichen-draped branch, and an eagle tucks its wings and rides a gust across the narrows. This is rainforest with the scale and patience of geological time, and the hikes and boat routes radiating from Ketchikan let you move through it on human terms: deliberate, close, and rarely alone.
Trail Wisdom
Pack layered waterproofs
Rain is frequent and often light but persistent; a breathable rain jacket and quick-dry layers keep you comfortable on both trails and boats.
Bring binoculars
Wildlife is often at a distance — eagles, seals, and whales are easier to appreciate with binoculars.
Go with a small-group guide for sensitive trails
Popular alpine and avalanche-chute trails limit visitors; guides have permits and local route knowledge.
Respect wildlife and salmon streams
Give bears and feeding fish wide berth; never approach or feed wildlife and follow your guide's safety briefings.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Stone bench on the Old-Growth Creek trail for quiet salmon watching
- •Betton Island tide pools and sheltered coves, accessed by small boat
Wildlife
Bald eagle, Black bear
Conservation Note
The Tongass stores vast amounts of carbon and has been at the center of logging and conservation debates; choose local guides who support sustainable practices and community conservation efforts.
The Tongass is home to Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian communities whose totem poles and village sites around Ketchikan reflect centuries of relationship to the forest and sea.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Wildflower emergence, Migratory bird returns, Quieter trails
Challenges: Persistent rain and mud, Late snow at higher elevations
Spring brings fresh color and active streams; expect muddy trails and variable weather, best for birders and quieter hikes.
summer
Best for: Long daylight hiking, Kayaking and boating, Whale and seal sightings
Challenges: Crowds on peak days, Unpredictable microclimates
Summer offers the most reliable weather windows for paddling and fjord flights, and the longest days for multi-activity days.
fall
Best for: Salmon runs, Bear viewing, Crisp, clear light
Challenges: Shortening days, Increasing wind and rain
Fall is prime for salmon and bear viewing, with dramatic light for photography; pack for rapidly cooling conditions.
winter
Best for: Storm-watching, Quiet lodge stays, Northern light possibilities
Challenges: Short daylight, snow on trails, Many services reduced or closed
Winter is quiet and starkly beautiful but most trail access and tours are limited; best for storm-lovers and off-season solitude.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Waterproof breathable jacketEssential
Keeps you dry and comfortable in the Tongass's frequent damp conditions.
Sturdy waterproof hiking bootsEssential
Provide traction on rooty, muddy trails and protection on rocky shorelines.
Binoculars (8x–10x)
Improves chances of spotting eagles, whales, and bears from a safe distance.
Dry bag (10L)Essential
Protects camera, phone, and layers during boat and kayak tours.
Common Questions
Do I need a permit to hike in Tongass National Forest?
Most day trails near Ketchikan do not require permits, but certain guided alpine routes and special-use trails are limited and run by licensed operators; check with your tour provider.
When is the best time to see whales?
Late spring through summer has the most consistent humpback activity in the Tongass Narrows and nearby fjords, though sightings are never guaranteed.
Are there bears on the trails?
Black bears are present in the Tongass and commonly seen from a distance; guided groups use bear-aware protocols and you should carry bear spray only where recommended by guides.
How wet is it really, and do guides provide rain gear?
Expect frequent precipitation; many outfitters supply raingear for marine and island tours, but bring your own high-quality jacket for hiking days.
Can I combine a hike and a kayak trip in one day?
Yes—several local itineraries pair e-bike or short drives with a guided paddle or a wildlife cruise; plan for a full day and coordinate logistics with your tour operator.
Is the Tongass accessible for families and older travelers?
There are family-friendly options like short rainforest walks and sheltered boat cruises; some alpine trails and zipline tours have age or fitness restrictions, so check each activity's requirements.
What to Pack
waterproof jacket, sturdy hiking boots, binoculars, dry bag — for staying dry, safe footing, wildlife viewing, and protecting electronics
Did You Know
Tongass National Forest covers about 16.7 million acres, making it the largest national forest in the United States and a major temperate rainforest carbon sink.
Quick Travel Tips
Book guided alpine and special-use hikes in advance; bring layered clothing and waterproofs; carry cash or card for small local shops; respect all wildlife and follow guide instructions
Local Flavor
Ketchikan is steeped in Native Alaskan culture and fishing heritage; try smoked salmon at dockside vendors and visit Saxman Totem Park to connect trail and town stories.
Logistics Snapshot
Base yourself in Ketchikan for boat, floatplane, and trail access; most tours provide transport from cruise docks; pack for rain and variable temperatures.
Sustainability Note
Choose certified local guides, avoid single-use plastics, keep distance from wildlife, and support community-led cultural sites to minimize impact and support regional conservation.