Sliding the Edge of Aotearoa: Te Paki’s Great Dunes and the Long White Shore
Stand at the crest, feel the wind dare you—and slide.
The wind takes your hat, then your breath. You plant your boots in warm, fine sand and climb—one step, two, then a dozen—until the world opens. Below, the wide ribbon of 90 Mile Beach runs like a polished blade; above, the dunes crest and fall in a sequence of ivory waves. Te Paki doesn’t so much sit on the map as it moves across it. The dunes are living landforms—shifting, swallowing, reshaping themselves under the trade winds—and when you stand at the top the restlessness is contagious. You want to run. You want to sandboard.
Trail Wisdom
Protect your feet
Wear sturdy, closed shoes; sand is abrasive and open footwear fills with grit that ruins straps and patience.
Hydrate and cover up
Bring at least 1–2 liters of water and a breathable, wide-brimmed hat—the reflective sand intensifies sun exposure.
Timing matters
Visit early morning or late afternoon to avoid the strongest winds and hottest sand; aim for calm days for the best sandboarding.
Respect the dunes
Stay on established tracks and avoid trampling vegetation at dune margins—the plants stabilize the dunes and recover slowly.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Walk the quiet backtracks south along the edge of Te Paki Stream to find sheltered picnic spots
- •Stop at the Mangonui Wharf on return for the famous fish and chips and a glimpse of historic bay-side life
Wildlife
gannet colonies observable along the Cape Reinga coast, occasional shorebirds like oystercatchers on the intertidal flats
Conservation Note
Dune vegetation is fragile; stay on established paths, avoid driving on dunes, and pack out all waste to protect shifting ecosystems.
Cape Reinga and the surrounding Northland coast are rich in Māori history; local iwi regard the area as a spiritual departure point for souls returning to Hawaiki.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: quieter trails, floral contrasts, milder climbs
Challenges: variable winds, occasional rain, cooler mornings
Spring offers comfortable climbing temperatures and fewer crowds; expect changeable weather and breezy afternoons.
summer
Best for: long daylight, warm sand, pairing with beach activities
Challenges: strong sun, busy tours, higher winds some days
Summer is ideal for sandboarding and combining the trip with 90 Mile Beach or Cape Reinga, but bring strong sun protection.
fall
Best for: dramatic skies, pleasant hiking conditions, fewer tourists
Challenges: shorter daylight, cooler evenings, wind shifts
Autumn brings crisp air and dramatic light—great for photos and less crowded crests, but dress in layers.
winter
Best for: dynamic weather photography, solitude, strong surf views
Challenges: cold winds, short daylight, choppy seas
Winter delivers raw, cinematic conditions and near-solitude, but be prepared for biting winds and wet weather.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Closed-toe trail shoesEssential
Provides traction on shifting sand and protects feet from abrasive grit.
Sandboard or plastic sled
For faster descents—rental options are common with organized tours or local operators.
Sun protection (hat, SPF 50+ sunscreen, sunglasses)Essential
Sand reflects sunlight heavily—effective sun protection is essential year-round in exposed conditions.
Hydration pack or 1–2L water bottleEssential
A compact source of water keeps you safe during climbs and in the strong sun.
Common Questions
How long does it take to climb the main Te Paki dunes?
A fit visitor can reach the highest crests in 15–30 minutes depending on pace and sand conditions; allow longer if you stop for photos or multiple runs.
Do I need to bring my own sandboard?
No—you can rent boards from local operators or join a tour that provides equipment, though bringing your own ensures a known fit and feel.
Can I drive on 90 Mile Beach?
Yes, parts of 90 Mile Beach are used as a legal road where local vehicles travel, but conditions change with tides and sand—check local guidance and only drive with appropriate vehicles and experience.
Are the dunes suitable for children?
Yes, older children can enjoy the dunes with supervision; small children should be guarded on steep descents and kept clear of high winds.
Is there a fee or permit to visit Te Paki?
There is generally no entry fee for the dunes themselves, but parking or access arrangements can vary; tours include logistics and sometimes small site fees elsewhere on the itinerary.
What should I do about winds and weather?
Check forecasts before you go, avoid exposed visits on gale days, and plan for rapid weather changes—bring layered clothing and secure hats or gear.
What to Pack
Closed-toe trail shoes, sun protection (hat/sunscreen), 1–2L water, lightweight layers for wind
Did You Know
Te Paki’s dunes are among the most extensive coastal dune systems in New Zealand and are continually reshaped by prevailing winds and longshore drift.
Quick Travel Tips
1) Join a small-group tour from Paihia for handled logistics; 2) Visit early or late to avoid peak winds; 3) Bring cash for small vendors at stops like Taipa or Mangonui; 4) Check tide times before walking 90 Mile Beach.
Local Flavor
Northland is steeped in Māori heritage and kai moana culture—pair dune runs with fresh fish and chips at Mangonui, learn local legends at Cape Reinga, and support small iwi-led guides when possible.
Logistics Snapshot
Access: road to Te Paki Reserve; nearest bases Paihia (2.5–3 hr drive) or Kaitaia; best time: spring–autumn; difficulty: moderate; permits: none required for dune access; rentals: sandboards available via tours.
Sustainability Note
Avoid climbing vegetated dune faces, take all rubbish home, and opt for licensed guides who follow local iwi protocols to minimize cultural and ecological impact.