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Seats by the Window: Riding the Bernina Express Through the Swiss Alps

Seats by the Window: Riding the Bernina Express Through the Swiss Alps

A panoramic rail journey where engineering and alpine drama meet—bring layers and a charged camera.

St. Moritz, Graubünden
By Eric Crews
land adventures, othersSeptembersummer

The carriage hums, a quiet, contented sound like a crowd holding its breath. Outside, the landscape unspools—emerald valleys, a ribbon of turquoise river, villages cupped by mountains—and every few minutes the view changes as if someone is turning the pages of a richly illustrated book. On the Bernina Express, you are both passenger and witness: the train is the lens and the Alps are the subject.

Trail Wisdom

Reserve a panoramic seat

Book the panoramic carriage or a guaranteed window seat in advance—these sell out, especially in high season.

Pack for big temperature swings

Layer light but warm clothing; high passes can be icy even in summer and warm in town.

Carry passport and mixed currency

You’ll cross from Switzerland into Italy—bring your passport and have francs and euros or a multi-currency card.

Keep your camera ready

Windows open on many carriages—have batteries, memory cards and a small lens cloth handy to catch the next breathtaking scene.

Local Knowledge

Hidden Gems

  • Brusio spiral viaduct viewpoint near the station for unobstructed photos
  • Diavolezza lodge for a high-altitude lunch and short glacier viewpoints

Wildlife

Alpine ibex, marmot

Conservation Note

The railway is a low-impact way to experience the Alps; respect fragile alpine zones by staying on trails, minimizing waste, and supporting local businesses.

The Bernina line, part of the Rhaetian Railway, was built in the early 20th century and inscribed with the Albula line on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2008 for its engineering and landscape integration.

Seasonal Guide

spring

Best for: late snow views, fewer crowds, hiking lower trails

Challenges: variable weather, snow at higher elevations

Spring brings melting snow and swollen rivers; lower-elevation walks are pleasant but high passes may still be snowy.

summer

Best for: stable weather, open high passes, optimal visibility

Challenges: peak crowds, higher prices

Summer is the clearest time to ride the Bernina, with warm valleys and long daylight—expect more tourists and book early.

fall

Best for: autumn colors, crisp light for photography, fewer visitors

Challenges: earlier sunsets, cooler temperatures

Fall’s larch and aspen colors make the route spectacular; bring warm layers for cold alpine mornings and evenings.

winter

Best for: snowbound vistas, ski culture in St. Moritz, glacier contrasts

Challenges: short days, some services reduced

Winter offers dramatic snowy panoramas and festive resort atmosphere—some hikes are limited but the scenery is uncompromising.

Photographer's Notes

Sit on the side facing glaciers for best shots, use a polarizing filter to reduce glare on snow and water, keep a fast shutter for moving scenes, and clean your lens often—window smudges and condensation can ruin exposures.

What to Bring

Layered jacket (softshell + insulating mid-layer)Essential

Fast-changing alpine weather makes layers essential for comfort on and off the train.

Mirrorless or DSLR camera with polarizerEssential

A polarizer cuts glare on lakes and snow and deepens blue skies for crisp alpine photos.

Reusable water bottle (1L)Essential

Hydration is key at altitude and during optional hikes—refill kiosks exist but carry your own bottle.

Sturdy day-hiking shoes

Good shoes are useful if you plan short hikes at stops like St. Moritz or Diavolezza.

Common Questions

How long is the Bernina Express route?

The full route between Tirano and St. Moritz takes around 2.5–4 hours depending on stops, while organized day tours from Milan or Como can last a full day (up to ~13 hours).

Do I need a passport?

Yes—this route crosses the Swiss-Italian border, so bring your passport and any required travel documents.

Are there restroom facilities on board?

Most panoramic carriages have restrooms, but facilities may be limited during peak times; plan accordingly.

Can I get food on the train?

Some services offer onboard refreshments, but many travelers bring snacks to enjoy during the journey or plan a lunch stop in Tirano or St. Moritz.

Is the route wheelchair accessible?

Accessibility varies by carriage and station; contact operators ahead of time to arrange assistance and confirm boarding logistics.

When should I book tickets?

Reserve panoramic carriage seats and popular day tours at least several weeks ahead during high season (July–August) and holidays.

What to Pack

Passport and cards (for border crossing), layered jacket (temperature swings), camera with polarizer (for glare control), reusable water bottle (stay hydrated at altitude)

Did You Know

The Rhaetian Railway’s Albula and Bernina lines were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 for their outstanding alpine railway engineering and harmony with the landscape.

Quick Travel Tips

Book panoramic seats early, bring both francs and euros or an international card, check the weather forecast for high passes, allow extra time for photo stops and passport checks.

Local Flavor

The journey bridges Swiss Romansh culture and Italy’s Valtellina—try Bündnerfleisch or pizzoccheri, sip St. Moritz hot chocolate, and browse artisan chocolate shops in town.

Logistics Snapshot

Departure points: Tirano, St. Moritz, or day tours from Milan/Como; Duration: 2.5–13 hours (single leg to full-day tour); Currency: CHF & EUR; Peak season: Jul–Aug; Book panoramic seats in advance.

Sustainability Note

Choose the train over driving to reduce emissions; support local producers at stops and stay on marked paths to protect fragile alpine habitats.

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