River of Grass: A Practical Guide to Wilding the Everglades
Slow the pace, find the wildlife — practical routes and real-world advice for seeing the River of Grass.
The morning arrives in a slow, green hush — the kind of hush that presses against the edges of your hearing and demands you listen. A curtain of sawgrass ripples like ocean swells, extending toward a pale, low horizon where the sky and the River of Grass become one. An airboat wakes the quiet with a low, prop-driven grumble and then sputters into a long, sputtering glide. The pilot lifts you across shallow water and peat, and for an hour the Everglades reveals itself in bursts: a spiny snout sliding off a log, a line of ibis like punctuation against the marsh, a mangrove tunnel narrowing into a shadowed, green cathedral.
Trail Wisdom
Go early for wildlife
Morning is the quietest, coolest, and most active time for birds, alligators and manatees — aim to be on the trail or boat at sunrise.
Combine boat and walk
Airboat rides show the scale; follow with a boardwalk or short hike to actually see species that won’t ride the wake.
Protect your electronics
Bring a dry bag and lens cloth — salt spray and swamp humidity can ruin gear quickly.
Dress for sun and bugs
Light, long sleeves and DEET or picaridin insect repellent balance sun protection with mosquito defense.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Gulf Coast barrier islands of the Ten Thousand Islands — quiet beaches and tidal pools
- •Shark Valley tram or bike loop for uninterrupted, wide-sky wildlife viewing
Wildlife
American alligator, West Indian manatee
Conservation Note
Restoration of South Florida’s water flows is ongoing; visitors help by adhering to trails, packing out trash, and supporting local conservation programs.
The park was created in 1947 after decades of drainage projects threatened the wetlands; Marjory Stoneman Douglas’ 1947 book helped reframe the Everglades as a river and fueled conservation efforts.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: bird nesting and migration, pleasant temperatures, wildflower bloom
Challenges: increasing humidity, late-season mosquitoes in some years
Spring balances comfortable temps with active birdlife; mornings are best for sightings before afternoon heat builds.
summer
Best for: lush waterways, fish and turtle activity, green, dramatic growth
Challenges: daily thunderstorms, high heat and humidity, more insects
Summer is hot and stormy but biologically lively; schedule water activities early and expect afternoon rain.
fall
Best for: waning crowds, good fishing and open water, lower humidity than summer
Challenges: hurricane season tail risks (Sept–Nov), variable water levels
Fall quiets the park after summer; watch forecasts during hurricane season and favor early-morning outings.
winter
Best for: dry-season wildlife concentration, clear skies, comfortable daytime temperatures
Challenges: cooler nights (for camping), higher daytime visitor numbers
Winter’s dry season is peak visiting time — excellent for wildlife viewing and photography, but expect crowds.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Dry bag (10–20L)Essential
Keeps phone, camera and layers dry during boat and kayak elements.
Lightweight long-sleeve shirt and convertible pantsEssential
Protects from sun and mosquitoes while staying breathable.
Quality insect repellent (DEET or picaridin)Essential
Controls mosquitoes and biting flies—critical in wet months.
Binoculars (8x–10x)
For birding and spotting alligators at a respectful distance.
Common Questions
Do I need a guide to visit the Everglades?
No — there are accessible self-guided trails and visitor centers — but guides add safety, interpretation and access to remote channels via boat or kayak.
Are airboat tours safe?
Yes — licensed operators run airboats regularly; choose established companies with lifejackets and interpretive guides for the best experience.
Can I camp in the Everglades?
Yes — backcountry and developed camping require permits for certain sites; book ahead during the dry season and follow park rules about food and wildlife.
When is the best time to see alligators?
Dry season mornings concentrate alligators near waterholes; early morning warm-up sunbathing is prime viewing time.
Is the Everglades walker-friendly for families?
Yes — boardwalks like Anhinga Trail are short, flat and wheelchair-accessible; combine with visitor-center programs for a family-friendly day.
How much walking or paddling should I expect?
Airboat tours are short bursts (30–60 minutes); kayak and eco-boat trips vary but plan for 1–4 hours of active time depending on the product.
What to Pack
Hydration pack, sun-protective clothing, insect repellent, waterproof dry bag — for hydration, sun/insect protection, and keeping gear safe.
Did You Know
Everglades National Park protects roughly 1.5 million acres of subtropical wilderness and is the largest subtropical wilderness in the United States.
Quick Travel Tips
Book morning departures for wildlife; carry cash for small onsite purchases; check the NPS site for closures; wear non-slip shoes that dry quickly.
Local Flavor
Nearby Miami and Everglades City offer contrasting flavors — Cuban cafés and street art in Miami, seafood shacks and boat-focused culture on the Gulf Coast; try conch fritters and local stone crab when in season.
Logistics Snapshot
Nearest major hub: Miami (1–1.5 hour drive). Park entrances: Shark Valley, Royal Palm (Homestead), Flamingo. Permits required for backcountry camping; pay fees or book guided tours for specific boat activities.
Sustainability Note
Follow Leave No Trace, avoid feeding wildlife, and choose small-group, certified eco-guides to minimize disturbance to sensitive habitats.