End of the World Green: Trekking to Laguna Esmeralda
A short, honest mountain hike to a glacier-fed jewel — turquoise in summer, frozen and still in winter.
It starts with the road: a ribbon of tarmac leaving Ushuaia and unspooling into the Tierra Mayor valley. The town shrinks behind you — a scatter of corrugated roofs and ship masts — and the Andes fold upward, closer, darker, like a wall you are about to climb into. On the trailhead you step off the packed gravel and into a different world: a sub-Antarctic forest of lenga and coihue whose trunks wear moss like scarves. Beneath your boots, the ground gives and springs — peatlands that have held water and time. Far ahead, a turquoise glint sits like a secret in the bowl of mountain slopes: Laguna Esmeralda.
Trail Wisdom
Waterproof boots are essential
The trail crosses peat bogs and can be very muddy; breathable, waterproof hiking boots will keep you dry and comfortable.
Bring layers and a windproof shell
Weather turns quickly in Tierra del Fuego; pack an insulating mid-layer and a reliable shell even on sunny days.
Start early in summer
Long daylight helps, but mid-afternoon winds can rise; morning visits tend to have calmer conditions and better light for photos.
Respect beaver-damaged areas
Beavers are an invasive species here; observe dams from the trail and avoid disturbing fragile riparian zones.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Nunatak refuge: a timber shelter near trailhead offering a warm rest stop and local lunches
- •Garibaldi Pass viewpoints and the chain of Great Lakes on combined private tours
Wildlife
Beavers (Castor canadensis) — invasive but frequently visible, Andean condor — may be seen circling higher ridgelines
Conservation Note
The area faces pressure from invasive beavers and glacial retreat; choose operators that practice leave-no-trace and support local conservation initiatives.
Ushuaia developed as a penal settlement in the late 19th century and later became a gateway for Antarctic expeditions; Laguna Esmeralda sits inside the broader Tierra del Fuego reserve landscape.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Wildflower emergence, Migrating birds, Cool, clear light for photos
Challenges: Boggy trails from snowmelt, Unpredictable weather, Cold snaps
Spring (Sept–Nov) brings thawing peat and a surge of bird activity; expect wet underfoot conditions and rapidly changing weather.
summer
Best for: Turquoise lagoon color, Long daylight, Helicopter and glacier mini-treks
Challenges: Higher meltwater levels, More visitors on popular days, Strong sun reflective glare
Summer (Dec–Feb) is the optimal season for the lagoon’s vivid color and accessible high routes, but plan for higher trail traffic and sun exposure.
fall
Best for: Crisp air and color shifts, Fewer crowds, Photographic contrasts
Challenges: Shorter daylight, Cooling temps, Possibility of early snow at altitude
Autumn (Mar–May) offers quieter trails and crisp conditions, with shorter days and a higher chance of snow at higher elevations.
winter
Best for: Snowshoeing and husky sleds, Frozen lake vistas, Intimate, quiet landscapes
Challenges: Deep snow requiring snowshoes, Limited services and accessibility, Cold and wind
Winter (Jun–Aug) transforms the valley into a snowy playground accessible with guided snowshoe, husky or snowmobile experiences; be prepared for cold and limited daylight.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Waterproof hiking bootsEssential
Keeps feet dry and provides traction in peat and muddy sections.
Windproof waterproof shellEssential
Protects against sudden rain, wind, and spray from streams.
Trekking poles
Helps with balance on boggy ground and during steep approach sections.
Insulating mid-layer (fleece/down)Essential
Traps heat during breaks and in exposed higher-elevation wind.
Common Questions
How long is the hike to Laguna Esmeralda?
Most guided hikes are 9–10 kilometers round trip and take about 4–5 hours including breaks.
Is the trail suitable for children?
Yes; many companies allow children over 12 on standard hikes. Check specific operator age limits and fitness requirements.
Can I do the hike independently without a guide?
Yes, the trail is well-marked, but weather and boggy terrain can complicate navigation; guided trips add safety and naturalist interpretation.
When is the lagoon its most vivid color?
Summer months (December–February) when glacial melt carries fine sediments into the lagoon, producing the intense turquoise hue.
Are dogs or pets allowed on the trail?
Policies vary; many operators do not allow dogs due to wildlife disturbance and logistics—confirm with your operator beforehand.
What wildlife might I see?
Common sightings include beaver dams, Andean condors overhead, foxes, and a variety of sub-Antarctic birds.
What to Pack
Waterproof hiking boots (support & dryness), windproof shell (weather protection), insulated mid-layer (warmth at breaks), 1–1.5L water + snacks (hydration & energy).
Did You Know
North American beavers were introduced to Tierra del Fuego in 1946 to establish a fur industry; they have since become an invasive species that dramatically altered local waterways.
Quick Travel Tips
1) Book morning departures to avoid afternoon winds; 2) Carry cash for small refuge purchases; 3) Wear gaiters in wet seasons; 4) Download offline maps—the cell signal is intermittent.
Local Flavor
Ushuaia’s cuisine blends Patagonian lamb and fresh seafood with Welsh and Spanish influences; try grilled cordero (lamb) or king crab after a day’s hike, and browse local artisan shops for lenga-wood handicrafts.
Logistics Snapshot
Distance: ~20 km from Ushuaia; Trail: ~9–10 km RT; Time: 4–5 hrs; Difficulty: Moderate; Transfers and lunches commonly included by operators.
Sustainability Note
Choose small-group operators, stay on marked trails to protect peat bogs, pack out all waste, and avoid approaching wildlife—support local conservation fees when available.