Emerald Crossings: Sailing, Hiking and Wild Places on Lake Todos los Santos
Sail emerald waters, hike volcanic shores and meet the wild heart of Chile’s lake country
You step off the timbered dock and the lake takes over. The water doesn’t just lie there — it moves with intention: a deep, mineral-green sheet that reflects the Osorno Volcano like a patient mirror. A catamaran hums away from Petrohué and you watch the shore slip off: native cold-temperate forest, basalt outcrops, and ley lines of lahar that speak of the Andes’ restless past. Wind pinches the air; gulls quarter above. For the next hour or two, depending on the crossing, the day narrows to wind, water and the silhouette of volcanoes — Puntiagudo’s knife, Tronador’s shoulder, Osorno’s perfect cone — closing the world down to a single, sharp panorama.
Trail Wisdom
Book morning crossings
Boat conditions are usually calmer in the morning; aim for the first departures from Petrohué to avoid afternoon winds.
Layer for wind and rain
Even summer days switch from sun to showers quickly—pack a breathable waterproof and an insulating midlayer.
Bring cash for Peulla
Villa Peulla has limited card facilities—carry small Chilean pesos for snacks, local guides and ecotour activities.
Respect wildlife distances
River otters, pudú and waterfowl are common near shore—observe quietly and avoid feeding animals.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Playa El Rincón — a remote pebble beach reached by boat with clear water and volcanic views
- •Velo de la Novia waterfall near Villa Peulla — an intimate cascade accessed by a short trail from the dock
Wildlife
Pudú (southern dwarf deer), River otter (huillín)
Conservation Note
The park protects fragile Nothofagus forests and aquatic habitats; choose licensed guides, avoid single-use plastics and stay on marked trails to help conserve the area.
Lake Todos los Santos lies within Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park, Chile’s oldest national park; Mapuche and Huilliche people historically used these valleys before later German and Chilean settlement.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Wildflower displays, Fewer crowds
Challenges: Unpredictable rain, Cooler temperatures
Spring brings thaw and green-up; trails can be muddy but waterfalls are full and birds are active.
summer
Best for: Stable boat crossings, Full-service tours
Challenges: Higher visitor numbers, Strong sun at altitude
December–March is peak season for clear views and running tours — pack sun protection and expect busier decks.
fall
Best for: Autumn light and color, Quieter trails
Challenges: Shorter daylight, Cooling temperatures
Fall offers crisp air and dramatic skies; services thin out so confirm transport ahead of time.
winter
Best for: Snow-capped volcano views, Low-season solitude
Challenges: Limited boat schedules, Cold and snow at higher elevations
Winter is for snowline scenery and fewer crowds; some routes and services may be closed.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Waterproof shellEssential
Wind and sudden showers are common—pack a breathable rain jacket.
Sturdy hiking shoesEssential
Good traction is useful on muddy forest trails and lava fields.
Polarizing filter for camera
Cuts glare and intensifies the lake’s emerald tones for better photos.
Reusable water bottleEssential
Stay hydrated on boat decks and short hikes; tap water is typically fine in towns.
Common Questions
How long is the boat crossing from Petrohué to Peulla?
Most catamaran crossings take about 90–120 minutes depending on wind and stops; tours often combine this with Petrohué Falls and a short walk in Peulla.
Can you swim in Lake Todos los Santos?
You can, but the water is cold year-round; swims are best for prepared, cold-tolerant visitors and usually from sheltered beaches like Playa El Rincón.
Are tours available from Puerto Varas?
Yes—Puerto Varas is the most common base for full-day excursions that include Petrohué, a lake crossing and short hikes; transfers are typically included.
Is it possible to cross into Argentina from the lake routes?
Yes—the Andean Lakes Crossing connects Bariloche (Argentina) and Puerto Varas (Chile) using multiple boat legs and land transfers; it’s a full-day, cross-border itinerary.
What wildlife might I see around the lake?
Look for small deer like the pudú, river otter (huillín), waterfowl and forest birds; larger mammals are rare and shy.
Do I need reservations for boat trips?
In high season (Dec–Mar) bookings are recommended, especially for the Andean Lakes Crossing and popular morning departures.
What to Pack
waterproof jacket (weather-proofing), sturdy hiking shoes (traction on mud and lava), layered clothing (temperature swings), reusable water bottle (limited services on trails)
Did You Know
Lake Todos los Santos is inside Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park, Chile’s oldest national park, established in 1926.
Quick Travel Tips
Book morning boat crossings, carry small Chilean pesos in Peulla, wear layered clothing for sudden weather changes, choose licensed guides for rafting and cross-border trips
Local Flavor
Puerto Varas blends Mapuche and German-Chilean influences—sample smoked trout, kuchen and local craft beers; small family-run restaurants near Petrohué serve hearty stews and trout fresh from the lakes.
Logistics Snapshot
Base in Puerto Varas or Puerto Montt; most day trips run 8–10 hours; boat crossings Petrohué–Peulla ~90–120 min; modest walking on boardwalks and lava fields; carry cash for remote stops.
Sustainability Note
Support operators that follow park rules, avoid single-use plastics, and respect wildlife viewing distances; small choices help protect the huillín and native forests here.