Edge of the Rainforest: Exploring Alaska’s Inside Passage by Boat and Kayak
A corridor of fjords, whales, and bears—how to explore Southeast Alaska’s richest marine wilderness
The day begins before most of the harbor has woken. A thin blue light rests on the jagged teeth of islands, and the water of the Inside Passage is as flat and reflective as polished metal. You push off from a small floatplane dock near Ketchikan, the engines whispering, and steer through a maze of tree-clad islets. Alder and Sitka spruce lean toward the sea like listeners, while the air smells faintly of kelp, bracken, and the smoke of old campfires. In this place—where ocean meets temperate rainforest—the landscape is never passive. Currents tug, gulls deliberate, and the shoreline seems to rearrange its stories as the tide moves through.
Trail Wisdom
Layer for changeable weather
Bring a waterproof shell over insulating layers; wind and drizzle can arrive quickly on the Passage.
Keep distance from wildlife
Follow your guide’s directions—stay 100+ yards from whales and let bears dictate how close you get; do not attempt to approach.
Bring a dry bag and quick-dry clothing
Even in summer, spray and splash are constant—protect electronics and wear synthetic fabrics that dry fast.
Book small-group trips
Smaller boats and guided groups reduce environmental impact and increase wildlife sightings quality and safety.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Margaret Creek (Traitor’s Cove) for concentrated bear viewing during salmon runs
- •Small uninhabited islands with tide pools—perfect spots to land and explore on kayak trips
Wildlife
Humpback whale, Black bear
Conservation Note
Responsible operators follow NOAA and local guidelines for keeping distance from marine mammals and minimizing disturbance at bear viewing sites; choose licensed guides who practice leave-no-trace principles.
Southeast Alaska’s coastal communities are rooted in Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian cultures with centuries of coastal navigation, fishery practices, and totem carving.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Migratory bird watching, Early-season whale sightings
Challenges: Unpredictable weather, Limited road/ferry schedules
Spring brings migrating seabirds and the first whales; conditions can be raw and changeable—expect cool temperatures and active tides.
summer
Best for: Whale watching, Bear viewing at salmon streams, Kayaking in calm seas
Challenges: Higher visitor numbers, Chilly, wet days despite mild air temps
Summer is peak wildlife season—long daylight, reliable salmon runs, and frequent humpback activity, but pack for rain.
fall
Best for: Fall salmon runs and bear activity, Quieter trails and tours
Challenges: Shortening daylight, Increasing storm frequency
Fall concentrates feeding activity as salmon return; wildlife is abundant but weather shifts toward stronger winds and rain.
winter
Best for: Snow-capped fjord photography, Aurora activity farther north
Challenges: Many services reduced or closed, Rough seas and limited daylight
Winter is quiet and stark—good for photographers seeking dramatic ice and snow, but expect limited tour options and harsher conditions.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Waterproof jacket and pantsEssential
Keeps you dry from sea spray, rain, and wind—non-negotiable for comfort on small boats.
Warm mid-layer (fleece or wool)Essential
Traps heat while remaining breathable during active excursions.
Dry bag (10–20L)Essential
Protects camera, phone, and layers from splash and unexpected swamping.
Telephoto lens or compact zoom (70–300mm)
Allows close framing of whales and shore wildlife without disturbing animals.
Common Questions
When is the best time to see humpback whales?
Late spring through early fall (May–September) is prime humpback season in the Inside Passage, with peak feeding often in July and August.
Can I see bears from a boat?
Yes—many tours visit estuaries and salmon streams (like Margaret Creek) where bears congregate; guides maintain safe viewing distances.
Are kayak trips suitable for beginners?
Many operators offer guided kayak outings suitable for beginners, often launching from a motorboat and including instruction and safety support.
Do I need prior fishing experience for fishing/whale-watching combos?
No—chartered fishing boats provide gear and instruction; combo trips usually cater to mixed-experience groups.
How should I dress for a full day on the water?
Dress in layers, wear synthetic or wool insulating layers, bring a waterproof outer layer, and pack spare socks—cotton is a poor choice.
Are tours family-friendly?
Yes—many operators accommodate children and multi-generational groups, but check age limits and safety requirements when booking.
What to Pack
Waterproof shell and pants for spray and rain; warm mid-layer like fleece for cool wind; dry bag for electronics and spare clothes; binoculars or a telephoto lens for wildlife viewing
Did You Know
Ketchikan, the southern gateway to the Inside Passage, has long promoted itself as the “Salmon Capital of the World” due to prolific sockeye and coho runs that underpin the region’s ecology and culture.
Quick Travel Tips
Book badge-required permits or licensed guides for wildlife tours; arrive at least a day early to buffer weather delays; bring cash for local vendors and tips; expect limited cell service in remote channels
Local Flavor
Southeast Alaska’s towns celebrate coastal culture with smoked salmon, berry preserves, and vibrant Native art—visit local galleries and the totem parks in Ketchikan or the artisan markets in Juneau to connect with community traditions.
Logistics Snapshot
Getting there: cruise ship, Alaska Marine Highway ferry, flight to Ketchikan/Juneau/Skagway. Book tours in advance; expect morning departures for wildlife. Carry layered clothing; most tours provide life jackets and safety briefings.
Sustainability Note
Support operators who follow wildlife viewing guidelines, avoid single-use plastics, and contribute to local conservation funds; your choices help protect salmon streams and marine mammals.