Edge of the Island: Hiking the Kalalau Trail on Kauai’s Nā Pali Coast
An 11-mile spine of ocean cliffs, jungle gullies, and a beach that rewards the prepared
You set out before dawn, headlamp haloing the shoreline as a slow light runs along the ridges. The Pacific is a dark sheet, and the Nā Pali cliffs rise like a sleeping giant—sheer, riddled with waterfalls, every valley a scar of green. The first steps on the Kalalau Trail are soft sand and crushed coral at Keʻe Beach; ten miles in, the trail stitches you along narrow ledges and through jungle gullies where ferns drip like curtains. By the time you drop into Kalalau Valley, the sea has a voice—waves pulling at the shore as if trying to pry secrets from the sand.
Trail Wisdom
Start early, finish early
Begin at first light to avoid midday heat and to ensure firmer trail conditions; Keʻe Beach parking fills fast.
Bring water treatment
Streams cross the trail; carry a filter or purification tablets rather than relying on carried water alone.
Check permits before you camp
Kalalau Valley requires a camping permit—obtain one from Hawaii DLNR for overnight stays.
Respect river crossings
After heavy rain, streams can flash; turn back if water rises or current looks strong.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Hanakapiʻai Falls (a lush 300-ft waterfall reached via a 4-mile round-trip inland spur)
- •Boat-accessible sea caves and Honopu Bay views best seen from a Zodiac tour
Wildlife
Hawaiian monk seal, Green sea turtle (honu)
Conservation Note
The permit system and strict leave-no-trace rules protect fragile valley ecosystems; pack out all trash and follow human waste disposal guidelines.
Kalalau Valley was inhabited by Native Hawaiians for centuries and features remnants of terraced taro agriculture and ancient footpaths.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Wildflowers and waterfalls, Moderate crowds
Challenges: Unpredictable showers, Muddy sections after rain
Spring balances green valleys and lower visitor numbers, but expect intermittent rain that can soften trail surfaces.
summer
Best for: Calmer seas for Zodiac tours, Snorkeling off the raft excursions
Challenges: Higher crowds, Hot midday sun on exposed ridges
Summer offers the best boat access to sea caves and snorkeling—ideal for pairing the trail with a Zodiac excursion.
fall
Best for: Fewer visitors, Stable weather windows
Challenges: Occasional storms, Shorter daylight late in season
Fall is a sweet spot for hikers—pleasant weather and thinning crowds—just watch for post-storm trail damage.
winter
Best for: Dramatic surf and waterfalls, Photography of full rivers
Challenges: Heavy rain and high surf, Canceled boat tours
Winter brings spectacular water displays but increases trail and sea hazards; only experienced, well-prepared hikers should attempt long sections.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Sturdy hiking shoes (trail runners or boots)Essential
Grippy, quick-drying footwear helps on slick rock, mud, and stream crossings.
Light rain shellEssential
A breathable waterproof layer keeps you dry during sudden showers without overheating.
Water filter or purification tabletsEssential
Treat stream water—don’t rely on untreated sources on multi-day hikes.
Lightweight camp setup (permit required)
If camping Kalalau, bring a compact tent, sleeping system, and permit—space and weather require efficiency.
Common Questions
Do I need a permit to hike the Kalalau Trail?
Permits are required for camping at Kalalau Beach; day hiking beyond Hanakapiʻai is allowed without a permit, but overnight stays require a Hawaii DLNR permit.
How long is the trail?
The trail is roughly 11 miles one-way from Keʻe Beach to Kalalau Beach (about 22 miles round-trip); many hikers opt for shorter out-and-back trips to Hanakapiʻai Beach or Falls.
Is the trail safe for beginners?
It’s challenging: exposed ledges, steep sections, and stream crossings make it better suited to experienced hikers; beginners should consider Hanakapiʻai or a guided coastal boat trip instead.
Can I combine hiking with a boat trip?
Yes—Zodiac tours on the Nā Pali Coast offer sea-cave access and snorkeling and are a great complement to a day on the trail; check seasonal availability.
When is the best time to go?
Summer offers calmer seas for boats and snorkeling; spring and fall have fewer crowds; winter provides dramatic scenery but greater hazards on trail and water.
What hazards should I watch for?
Flash flooding, slippery mud, unstable ledges, and strong ocean currents—avoid crossings after heavy rain and never underestimate stream flows.
What to Pack
Water filter or purification tablets (treat stream water), sturdy trail shoes (grip and quick-dry), lightweight rain shell (sudden showers), headlamp (early starts/late returns).
Did You Know
Kalalau Valley contains remnants of ancient Hawaiian taro terraces and was inhabited until the late 1800s, reflecting centuries of agricultural use before modern depopulation.
Quick Travel Tips
Arrive before sunrise to secure parking; reserve camping permits well in advance; check DLNR trail alerts for closures; pair with a Zodiac tour for sea-cave views.
Local Flavor
Base in Hanalei or Princeville for local shave ice, fresh poke, and taro-based dishes; visit a farmers market for island-grown fruit before an early trail start.
Logistics Snapshot
Trailhead: Keʻe Beach (Haena). Distance: 11 miles one-way. Permits required for Kalalau camping. No reliable cell service. Parking limited—arrive early. Treat stream water.
Sustainability Note
Permits limit overnight impact; practice pack-it-in/pack-it-out, use human waste disposal protocols, and stay on durable trail surfaces to protect native flora.

