Between Two Islands: Finding Solace and Salt in The Cracks (Las Grietas)
A pocket of sea between basalt walls—how a short swim at Las Grietas reveals the geology, wildlife, and rhythm of Santa Cruz.
You climb down a narrow wooden ladder from the hand-painted pier and the town of Puerto Ayora melts into a scatter of boat horns and laundry lines. Ahead, two black basalt walls lean inward, impatient and silent. Between them, a strip of water pulls the sky down—green one moment, then glass-clear—beckoning. This is The Cracks (Las Grietas), a tectonic seam on Santa Cruz Island where the Pacific squeezes inland and waits to be explored.
Trail Wisdom
Go early or late
Arrive before 10am or after 3pm to avoid crowds and enjoy calmer water for snorkeling.
Wear water shoes
Volcanic rock is sharp and slippery—water shoes protect feet on the path and in the shallows.
Use reef-safe sunscreen
Chemical sunscreens harm corals; bring mineral-based, reef-safe protection.
Watch the tide and current
Currents in the channel can shift—follow guides' advice and avoid swimming alone.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Tintoreras islets—small islets near Isabela with calm snorkeling and lava formations
- •Lava tunnels in the highlands—part of Full Day Santa Cruz Rancho and Lava Tunnels Tour for a different geological perspective
Wildlife
Galápagos sea lion, Blue-footed booby
Conservation Note
The Galápagos enforces strict protections including no touching wildlife, designated paths, and recommended reef-safe sunscreens to minimize human impact on fragile ecosystems.
Puerto Ayora grew from a small fishing village into the main town on Santa Cruz; nearby the Charles Darwin Research Station has been central to conservation and scientific efforts since the 1960s.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Warmer water snorkeling, Lush highlands, Calmer seas
Challenges: Afternoon rain showers, Slightly higher humidity
March–May brings warmer seas and excellent visibility—ideal for snorkeling Las Grietas and combining with Bay tours.
summer
Best for: Wildlife viewing (marine upwelling), Cooler walks, Fewer tourists
Challenges: Cooler water temperatures, Garúa (mist) reducing sunlight
June–August is cooler and nutrient-rich, great for birdlife and marine productivity—bring a light wetsuit for snorkeling.
fall
Best for: Clear skies, Good bird activity, Excellent boat tours
Challenges: Variable sea conditions, Occasional choppy water
September–November balances cool, clear weather and strong marine life—ideal for combining Las Grietas with bay boat trips.
winter
Best for: Warm water bathing, Calmer seas for snorkeling, Lush shorelines
Challenges: Higher tourist numbers in December, Occasional heavier surf near beaches
December–February is warm and inviting, with calm conditions that favor relaxed swims and family-friendly snorkeling.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Snorkel mask and finsEssential
Improves visibility and efficiency in the channel; many tours provide rentals but personal fit is best.
Water shoesEssential
Protects feet on sharp lava rock and provides traction on slippery paths.
Reef-safe sunscreenEssential
Protects both skin and fragile marine ecosystems; SPF 30+ mineral formulas recommended.
Light wetsuit or rash guard
Helpful for cooler months or longer snorkeling sessions; also protects against sun and scrapes.
Common Questions
How do I get to Las Grietas from Puerto Ayora?
You can walk from the main dock in about 20–30 minutes along a marked path and steps, or take a short panga/boat transfer arranged by local operators.
Do I need a guide or can I visit independently?
Independent visits are common, but hiring a guide or joining a half-day bay tour adds safety, logistical ease, and local insight.
Is Las Grietas suitable for snorkeling beginners?
Yes—shallow areas are fine for novices, but swimmers should be comfortable in open water and heed changing currents; use a flotation vest if unsure.
Are there entrance fees or permits?
No separate permit is required for Las Grietas, but entrance fees and park rules for the Galápagos National Park apply to protected areas—check with your tour operator.
Can I combine Las Grietas with other visits in one day?
Yes. Popular pairings include Tortuga Bay, La Loberia, and the Charles Darwin Station—many packages like the Bay Tour and Half-Day Bay Tour include these stops.
What wildlife might I see while snorkeling?
Expect small reef fish, territorial marine iguanas at the waterline, and occasionally sea turtles or rays depending on conditions.
What to Pack
Snorkel mask and fins (better visibility and mobility), water shoes (protect feet on lava rock), reef-safe sunscreen (protect coral), light waterproof jacket (coastal spray and sudden showers).
Did You Know
Las Grietas is a narrow fissure formed by tectonic fracturing of cooled lava flows; its clear, stratified waters are replenished by both ocean tides and freshwater seepage.
Quick Travel Tips
Book morning tours for best water clarity; bring cash for local boats and snacks; stay in Puerto Ayora to minimize transit time; always use reef-safe sunscreen.
Local Flavor
Puerto Ayora mixes laid-back island life with conservation-focused tourism: try fresh ceviche at a seaside comedor, visit the Charles Darwin Research Station to learn about giant tortoise recovery, and buy locally woven hats from market vendors.
Logistics Snapshot
Getting there: walk or short boat from Puerto Ayora; duration: 1–3 hours; best time: mornings; cost: small boat fees or included in bay tours; safety: swim with a buddy and listen to guides.
Sustainability Note
Support certified local guides, use reef-safe sunscreen, avoid single-use plastics, and respect posted paths to minimize disturbance to wildlife and fragile volcanic features.