Among the Totems: Walking Sitka’s Rainforest That Holds a Nation’s Story
Walk among totems, meet rescued wildlife, and layer a kayak trip on top of a compact cultural immersion.
You step off the salty boardwalk and the rainforest takes you in the chest — a green press of Sitka spruce, hemlock and yellow cedar that smells like old growth and rain. Sunlight, when it arrives, seeps through a cathedral of needles and drips onto a trail threaded with roots and spruce cones. Then the first pole appears: hooded figures, looping crests, eyes that hold you steady. The totems stand like sentinels along a narrow loop that meets the sea — carved narratives that map family histories and disputes, clan crests and the long, painful counterpoint of colonial history. This is Sitka National Historical Park, where landscape and lore are braided together and where a short walk hands you the keys to Southeast Alaska’s human story.
Trail Wisdom
Wear waterproof footwear
The Totem Trail is largely boardwalk and packed soil, but rain and surf spray make sections muddy and slippery—waterproof boots with good tread will keep you comfortable.
Start early for wildlife
Bald eagles, harbor seals and shorebirds are most active at dawn and dusk; an early walk increases your chances without the cruise crowds.
Combine stops for a full day
Pair the park with the Fortress of the Bears and Alaska Raptor Center to get cultural context and wildlife viewing without long transfers.
Respect the totems
Do not climb or touch historic carved poles; use steps back for photos and read interpretive panels to understand their significance.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Quiet viewpoint at the far end of the beach where tide pools reveal starfish and anemones
- •Lincoln Street historic walk, ending at local shops selling smoked salmon and cedar crafts
Wildlife
Bald eagle, Harbor seal
Conservation Note
Local organizations and the park emphasize cultural stewardship; respect for totems and support for Tlingit-led programs help protect both heritage and habitat.
Sitka was the site of the 1804 Battle of Sitka between Tlingit people and Russian traders; the park preserves both the totem poles and the memory of that encounter.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Wildflower drifts, Migratory birds, Quieter trails
Challenges: Mud and lingering cold, Unreliable daylight, Biting insects on warm days
Spring brings migrating seabirds and fresh greens, but expect muddy trails and chilly, changeable weather; bring waterproofs and insect repellent.
summer
Best for: Calmest weather, Kayaking and boat trips, Long daylight for exploration
Challenges: Crowds from cruise ships, Limited lodging availability, Higher prices for tours
Early summer offers the best weather and long days—ideal for combining the park with kayaking or wildlife tours, though cruise crowds peak midday.
fall
Best for: Autumn light for photos, Salmon runs nearby, Fewer visitors
Challenges: Shortening daylight, Wind and rain events, Colder water temperatures
Fall’s crisp air and salmon runs add drama; expect cooler, wetter weather and shorter daylight windows for excursions.
winter
Best for: Storm-watching, Northern light potential, Solitude
Challenges: Limited services and tours, Cold, wet conditions, Short daylight hours
Winter is quiet and raw—fewer tours run, but clear days offer unique light; dress warmly and plan logistics carefully.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Waterproof hiking bootsEssential
Keeps feet dry and provides traction on wet boardwalks and muddy trail sections.
Waterproof shell jacketEssential
Protects against sudden coastal rain and wind without overheating.
Daypack with water bladderEssential
Carries layers, snacks, and 1–2 liters of water for short hikes and combined tours.
Lightweight binoculars
Helps spot eagles, seals and distant marine mammals from the shore or trail.
Common Questions
How long is the Totem Trail loop?
The park’s main Totem Trail is roughly 1 mile (1.6 km) round-trip and is largely boardwalk and packed soil, typically taking 30–60 minutes depending on stops.
Is there an entrance fee for Sitka National Historical Park?
There is typically no general admission fee for the park, though nearby attractions like the Fortress of the Bears and some museums may charge separate entry.
Can I see bears in the park?
Brown bears are uncommon inside the park itself; to see bears safely, visit the Fortress of the Bears rescue center or take a guided trip where wildlife viewing protocols are enforced.
Are guided tours recommended?
Yes — small-group tours that combine the park with the Raptor Center and Fortress of the Bears offer context and efficient transport, especially for cruise passengers.
Is the Totem Trail accessible for strollers or wheelchairs?
Much of the boardwalk is stroller- and wheelchair-friendly, but there are sections with roots and uneven surfaces; check with the visitor center for current conditions.
Can I combine a park visit with kayaking?
Absolutely — Sitka is a launch point for multi-day kayak expeditions that explore nearby fjords and wildlife habitats; book with experienced outfitters for safety in coastal conditions.
What to Pack
Waterproof jacket, sturdy boots, binoculars, reusable water bottle — for wet coastal weather, traction on muddy boardwalks, wildlife viewing, and hydration.
Did You Know
Sitka National Historical Park commemorates the 1804 Battle of Sitka and contains totem poles collected and preserved there in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, making it Alaska’s first federally protected historical park.
Quick Travel Tips
Book small-group tours early during cruise season; bring layered clothing and rain protection; carry cash or card for small museum fees and souvenirs; plan morning visits to avoid cruise crowds.
Local Flavor
Sitka’s culinary scene pairs Russian influences with ocean-first Alaska fare: smoked salmon, halibut, and local shellfish share menus with sourdough and Russian-style pastries. Seek out Tlingit-made crafts and guided cultural programs led by local artists.
Logistics Snapshot
Know-before-you-go: short 30–60 minute Totem Trail loop; minimal elevation; combine with Fortress of the Bears and Alaska Raptor Center for a half-day; dress for wet weather; guided tours sync with cruise schedules.
Sustainability Note
Stay on designated trails, don’t touch or climb totem poles, and support Tlingit-led experiences and local conservation organizations to ensure cultural and ecological resilience.