Aftershock: Walking the Wild Heart of Mt. St. Helens
A landscape remade — how to see the crater, the comeback, and the quiet lessons of a living volcano
You climb out of the van and the first thing you notice is how different the air feels — thinner, cooler, edged with a mineral sharpness that seems to come from the mountain itself. The view opens like an auditorium curtain: a burned amphitheater, a ragged crater rim, and all around, the landscape that the 1980 eruption remade in a single, violent afternoon. You can feel the history under your boots: ash layers compressed into terraces, forests caught in mid-recovery, and the patient green that’s creeping back across the pumice and boulder fields.
Trail Wisdom
Start at Johnston Ridge Visitor Center
Pick up maps, watch the eruption film, and get current trail condition information before heading out to the crater viewpoints.
Layer for quick weather shifts
High-elevation viewpoints can be windy and cool even on warm days — bring a windproof layer and hat.
Footing varies — choose sturdy shoes
Expect pumice, loose talus, and rooty forest sections; trail runners are fine, but hiking boots provide extra support.
Plan for minimal cell service
Download maps and emergency contacts; battery packs and a paper map are useful backups on longer hikes.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Hike the Hummocks Trail at mid-morning for quiet wildlife sightings
- •Coldwater Lake’s far shore offers reflective views and elk sightings away from the main access points
Wildlife
Roosevelt elk, Bald eagle
Conservation Note
Stay on marked trails to protect fragile regrowth; choose certified local guides to support sustainable tourism and minimize vehicle impact.
The May 18, 1980 eruption removed the mountain’s north face and dramatically reshaped the landscape; the area is now part of the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument established in 1982.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: waterfalls, wildflowers, fewer crowds
Challenges: muddy trails, lingering snow patches, partial road openings
Spring brings melting snow and sudden waterfalls; trails can be wet and some higher roads may still be closed, so check conditions.
summer
Best for: clear crater views, full trail access, aerial tours
Challenges: crowds on weekends, strong sun, limited shade
Summer offers the best visibility and trail access; arrive early for quieter conditions and pack sun protection and ample water.
fall
Best for: crisp air and color, photography, fewer visitors
Challenges: shorter daylight, cool temperatures, possible early snow
Autumn delivers clear, crisp days ideal for photos and long vistas, but dress in layers for cooler mornings and evenings.
winter
Best for: snowscapes, solitude, winter mountaineering
Challenges: road closures, avalanche risk, requires winter gear
Winter scenes are dramatic but access is limited; only well-equipped visitors or guided parties should venture into higher zones.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Sturdy hiking bootsEssential
Provide ankle support and traction on pumice, talus and rooty trails.
Layered clothing with windproof shellEssential
Helps manage sudden temperature shifts at viewpoints and during brisk winds.
2–3 liters of water and electrolyte drinkEssential
Hydration is crucial on exposed trails and in dry, ash-rich terrain.
Daypack with map, first-aid kit, and portable batteryEssential
Carries essentials for safety and navigation where cell service is unreliable.
Common Questions
Do I need a permit to hike at Mt. St. Helens?
No general permit is required for the Johnston Ridge area and most interpretive trails, but some routes and backcountry areas may require permits — check the National Volcanic Monument website before you go.
What is the best time of day to visit for clear views?
Mornings and early evenings often have the clearest light and calmer winds; midday can bring haze or afternoon clouds, especially in summer.
Are guided tours worth it?
Yes — guided small-group or private tours add geological and ecological context, handle logistics and driving, and allow you to spend more time outside the vehicle.
Can I drive all the way to the crater?
No — roads lead to Johnston Ridge and nearby viewpoints, but the crater rim itself is accessible only via designated trails and viewpoints at the Visitor Center.
Are aerial tours safe in poor weather?
Air tours are highly weather dependent; operators will reschedule or reroute for safety, so book with flexible timing and expect possible changes.
What wildlife might I see?
Roosevelt elk, black-tailed deer, small mammals such as squirrels and voles, and numerous bird species are commonly seen around lakes and meadow edges.
What to Pack
Hiking boots (stability on pumice/talus), layered windproof jacket (temperature swings), 2–3L water + electrolytes (hydration on exposed trails), map/phone with backup battery (limited cell service)
Did You Know
The May 18, 1980 eruption of Mt. St. Helens was the most economically destructive volcanic event in U.S. history and removed roughly 1,300 feet from the summit.
Quick Travel Tips
1) Arrive early to beat crowds and afternoon haze; 2) Check Johnston Ridge Visitor Center hours and road status before driving; 3) Pack out all trash and stick to trails to protect regrowth; 4) If flying, book flexible windows because tours are weather dependent.
Local Flavor
Local towns honor the mountain with small museums, roadside stands selling smoked salmon and berries, and tasting rooms offering craft beer — many guides recommend finishing a day with a local ale while watching the peak glow at sunset.
Logistics Snapshot
Where to start: Johnston Ridge Visitor Center (seasonal hours). Getting there: 2.5–4 hours from Portland or Seattle; many operators run all-inclusive day tours. Fees: National Monument parking and entrance are free, but check for special closures. Best timing: July–August for trails and views.
Sustainability Note
Support local guides who follow Leave No Trace practices, avoid off-trail travel that damages fragile soils, and carpool or take an organized tour to reduce vehicle impact on access roads.